Isle of Skye: The Island you must visit, the Island you will not forget

You will not forget your visit to the Isle of Skye.  The superlatives, the adjectives, all the flowing words of praise that have been written about the island, are correct. If anything, they do not do it justice.  It really is an island travellers should visit. Skye really is something special.

We took the Calmac ferry from Tarbert on the Isle of Harris to dock in Uig, the small port which resides in a sheltered bay on the north-west coast of Skye.  It was a lovely sea crossing which had the added bonus of giving us superb views of the other islands that lie off the Scottish mainland. Of course, we think the best way to see Skye, is to go over the sea to it!

Portree is a small, but busy little town situated halfway along the eastern coastline of the island.  Portree’s central location makes it a great centre to tour the island from. We were happy to stay in lovely B&B which had the option of delicious pancakes or a full Scottish breakfast.  After 2 weeks of touring the Western Isles and having a full Scottish breakfast every day the pancakes were a real treat as were the fresh home-made scones baked daily. We can highly recommend a stay at Gleann an Ronnaich  

Skye is a deceptively large island.  It’s over 100 kilometres in length with a land area greater than 1,500 square kilometres.   Even from Portree it may take over an hour and a half to drive to some of the popular tourist sites on the far north and south of the island.  You have to spend at least a few days on Skye to appreciate all that the island can offer.

Views of Skye

We enjoyed Portree itself.  There is a scenic circular walk that starts by the harbour in the centre of the town.  It provides great coastal views all the way across the sea to the nearby island of Raasay.  The walk took us about 90 minutes and at its end we were ready for a cup of coffee and a cake.  Portree has lots of bars and cafes to choose from.

Skye can get very busy during the peak summer months though we personally had no difficulties in finding a table when we wanted to eat and we were there in July.  However, if you want to eat somewhere extra special and would like some fine dining in places like the Three Chimneys in Colbost, then you must book in advance, even outside of the summer months.

Peak congestion is when a stream of coaches disembark their passengers in the town all at the same time. Then, Portree can seem very busy indeed! Again, though some restaurants required pre-booking for an evening meal, we had no problem finding a free table when we ate out.  We tend to eat our evening meal between 5-6 pm. Had we eaten later, finding a table may have been more problematic. Eating early has the additional advantage that you may finish your meal just in time to see and hear the Isle of Skye Pipe Band which regularly parades through the town centre.  We enjoyed a rousing performance from the band with the Pipe major being particularly impressive marching up and down in full Highland regalia. The Band’s parades in the town are advertised locally and we would strongly recommend you see the Band if you are in Portree. 

Skye is one of those rare holiday destinations where the reality of being there is better than what brochures advertise.  From the Old Man of Storr to the Neist Point Lighthouse, none of the island’s fabled attractions disappoint. We hired a car in Skye and simply travelling across the island was a wonderful experience with breathtaking views around every corner.  Our journey times were much longer than planned because we kept stopping to take photos of the wonderful landscapes we kept on meeting. Skye really is a beautiful island. This is our favourite photograph of our stay, the view just stopped us in our tracks!

View with Old Man of Storr

There is a caveat to touring Scotland’s most famous island.  The whole world has now heard of Skye’s natural beauty and and at times it may seem the whole world is queuing up to see it.  The traditional tourists from North America and England are now accompanied by tourists from Europe, China and South America. There can be traffic congestion near the most popular spots and you may find yourself amongst a small crowd of people when trying to get that perfect photo.  Skye is still worth visiting despite the increased number of visitors. And to put Skye in perspective, it is much less crowded than Devon, Cornwall or the Lake District during the peak holiday season. We would recommend visiting the most popular sites early in the morning or late evening when day-trippers and coach parties are not there.  Take advantage of the long daylight hours that are past 11.00 pm in the summer months. Travelling around Skye in the early evening is much quieter than during the day. It is the time when the local sheep population take over the roads and we got some great pictures of sheep on our way back after an evening sunset. The sheep weren’t bothered by the crowds!

Here are a few samples of the beautiful places we saw in Skye,  There were so many places we were not able to see, we will have to visit Skye again.

Neist Point

Flora MacDonald and Skye

Skye has had a long and often turbulent history.  Its role in the 1745 Jacobite Rebellion has been immortalised in the song:  Over the Sea to Skye. The song commemorates how Flora MacDonald helped the rebel leader Bonnie Prince Charlie escape chasing Hanoverian troops. The Prince had been hiding on the neighbouring Hebridean island of South Uist.  Flora MacDonald disguised the Prince as her maid. She and the Prince first travelled to the Isle of Benbecula where they boarded a boat which, as the song says, went over the sea to Skye. From Skye, the Prince was taken on another short boat journey to Raasay, where he boarded a vessel which eventually took him to safety in France.  

Flora MacDonald was imprisoned for over a year for her part in the Prince’s daring escape.  The irony is that a number of Flora’s family were supporters of the Hanoverian cause! She and her family later emigrated to America where she became involved in that country’s rebellion against the British.  Sadly, the family lost its lands in that rebellion and so she had to return to Skye. Her burial place at Kilmuir has a fitting memorial to this remarkable woman. It is well worth a visit.

Over the Bridge to Skye

Built in 1995 the Skye road bridge has transformed the economy of Skye with day-trippers now visiting the island from as far away is Edinburgh.  Prior to the bridge being built visitors would have to catch the ferry which made the short sea crossing from the mainland port at the Kyle of Lochalsh.  Though only a few hundred metres in length, the bridge is a feat of engineering skill and well worth taking the time to explore.

The bridge spans the small island of Eilean Ban which is home to a lighthouse and a nature reserve run by Ring of Bright Water author, Gavin Maxwell.  It is worth parking your car and walking across the bridge to see the lighthouse and the spectacular views the bridge provides. Tours are available around Eilean Ban’s nature reserve on request.

Eilean Donan Castle

About 2 miles along the road from the bridge is one of Scotland’s most impressive castles, Eileen Donan castle.  The castle has a long history and it played a pivotal role in the 1719 rebellion when a garrison of Spanish troops defended the castle against British soldiers. If you are travelling by car to Skye then take the time to visit it.  In recent years it has been used as a film location for lots of films including Highlander (1986), Loch Ness (1996) and James Bond – The World is Not Enough (1999)

The views looking out from the castle are pretty special too.

Isle of Skye Running

One of the best ways to see Skye is to take part in the island’s annual half-marathon race which is held in early June. Details can be found here: Skye half marathon

Though the island does not have a parkrun, it has an established athletics club and members meet in Portree on Wednesday evenings for a club run.  Perhaps you could join them when you visit the island? Details of Skye running can be found on the club website: Skye and Lochalsh RC

We left our hire car at the Kyle of Lochalsh railway station as we said goodbye to Skye. There was a plaque here to commemorate the 1919 Iolaire disaster (see our blog on the Isle of lewis for more details).  We then took another scenic train journey, this time to Inverness where our trip ended with a flight home. It was a fantastic trip all through the Outer Hebrides and Skye. It left us wanting to see and explore more Scottish islands.  Keep a look-out on our blog for where our adventures will take us next.

We would love to hear your thoughts in the comments section below. Please follow and share with anyone you think may be interested. See you again soon!

Stratford-upon-Avon parkrun

If you want to run a fast, well organised, and genuinely friendly park run, then the Stratford-upon-Avon parkrun is hard to beat.  If you are a parkrun tourist and want your parkrun to be the start of a day out, or even better, the start of a weekend break, then Stratford offers something for everyone and is amongst the best.

Stratford’s free parkrun is a three lap course ran within the town’s Recreation Ground. The course is a scenic route using tarmac paths and some grass ways.  You will see swans on the Avon, Shakespeare’s theatre and the beautiful flower arrangements of the town’s premier park area. A full description of the course can be found on the website here:  https://www.parkrun.org.uk/stratforduponavon/course/

Part of the course follows the river so it can be wet if the river is running high.  Similarly, the grass section may be slippery so care should be taken when running here. Stratford attracts up to 400 runners so the start can be a little congested.  However, most of the course follows a good, flat, tarmac surface so the course provides PB possibilities.

If there is an event being held on the river, such as a boating regatta, an alternative 4 lap course is used.  This course removes the river bank section so the 4 shorter laps are run to make up the 5K distance.

Remember to hand in your tokens at the end.

Post Run Refreshments

Stratford volunteers provide an excellent refreshment table for runners at the end of the race.  A wide variety of cold refreshing drinks are available as well as hot teas and coffees. A great selection of fruits are there to be sampled and for those with a sweeter tooth, home-made cakes and other sweets are on display tempting you to taste them.  Even dogs are catered for with a special dog biscuit area! 

A small voluntary donation is all that is asked.  The post race refreshments adds to the friendly ambience of the Stratford parkrun giving it a quality that makes it so special.

Tip: Stratford are trying to improve the environment by phasing out plastic cups.  Please bring your own cup for drinks and so help reduce plastic consumption. Thank you.

Parking

There is ample parking available in the Recreation Ground car park which is literally by the start and finish of the run.  Car parking fees are on a pay and display system and are quite reasonable. 

Post Race Shower/Swim

Stratford Leisure centre is located at about a 600 metre walk from the start of the race,  A post race shower can be had here for £1.50 at present prices. The centre has a superb swimming pool so runners can enjoy a post run swim if they are feeling more energetic! 

The Recreation Ground car park ticket is not valid for the Leisure Centre’s car park.

Here is a link to the Leisure centre’s website: Stratford Leisure Centre

For more general information on parkrun including details of where they are held see the Parkrun website: https://www.parkrun.org.uk/

Other Running in Stratford 

For those who want to run more than just the park run, then Stratford is a great location for general training.  Stratford’s Greenway provides a 5.5 mile traffic free tarmac route from Stratford to Long Marston for general training.  The Greenway is easily accessible by running from the Recreation Ground. There are small car parks along the Greenway if you wish to drive to a different start.  More information about the Greenway can be found on its website here: Stratford Greenway

The town hosts a number of prestigious races throughout the year, including the Shakespeare Marathon to commemorate the Bard’s birthday in April.  Stratford is a top rated marathon and a great alternative for anyone disappointed in not being able to run the London race. A half-marathon can be ran for those who would prefer to run the shorter distance. Details are available here:  Shakespeare Marathon

Stratford is the venue for various 10K and other races during the year.  Stratford is also the start and finish of one of England’s best long distance relay races: The Cotswold Hilly 100.  This is a 100 mile 10 person relay race for athletic club teams. The route traverses the beautiful hills of the nearby Cotswolds.  The race is held on one of the May bank holiday Sundays, Details of this, and other Stratford races, can be found on the Stratford AC website:  Stratford AC

What to do after your run?

You have just got your PB for the year at Stratford: what do you do now?  There is so much to do it is almost an impossible question. Take a stroll through the park, visit Holy Trinity church, attend an afternoon play at one of the two theatres or see a movie in the delightful Stratford Picturehouse.  Stratford has so much to offer the visitor. We will give you more ideas of what to do in Stratford in a later blog on this site. 

You may be interested in our blog on the Forest of Dean parkrun and also our Oban blog which has details of the Ganavan Sands parkrun. 

We would love to hear your thoughts in the comments section below. Please follow and share with anyone you think may be interested.  See you again soon!

Symonds Yat: England’s Secret Beauty

Symonds Yat, in the heart of the Forest of Dean, is one of the country’s most picturesque tourist  locations. Besides its natural beauty it has a wealth of activities for visitors to sample. There are actually two Symonds Yat: Symonds Yat East and Symonds Yat West, two small hamlets which face each other on opposing sides of the River Wye. 

There is a picturesque, flat circular walk from Symonds Yat East which takes approximately 1.5 hours, depending on how often you stop to admire the views or take photographs!  We walked from the Saracen’s Head pub, keeping the river on our right until we reached a footbridge crossing the river.

After crossing the bridge there was an enticing sign to Biblins Tea Garden where we went for a short break.  As it was such a beautiful day we sat outside and what a joy it was to see a swallow’s nest above us. The swallows were feeding their young and didn’t seem bothered by the people nearby.  

The owners of the Tea Gardens are very friendly people who are renovating the 500 year old property adjoining the gardens.  It’s a wonderful building and blends in perfectly with the landscape. You can visit their Facebook page here: https://www.facebook.com/BiblinsTeaGarden

We then continued our walk, still keeping the river on our right walking back towards Symonds Yat West. 

You can catch the hand ferry across the river. It costs about £2 each and it is a quick way to get to the other side where you can stop for a break at the Saracen’s Head if you wish. 

Ye Old Ferrie Inn

If you don’t want to cross at the Saracen’s Head, you can continue your walk for a few hundred metres to another pub called Ye Old Ferrie Inn.  They also have a hand ferry crossing the river here too. On the other side you can follow the riverside path the few hundred metres back to the Saracen’s Head.  Ye Old Ferrie Inn was named in the Guardian newspaper (August 2022) as one the best waterside pubs in the UK. We agree! We visited recently and had a delicious meal there and it was lovely to discover all the food was sourced locally. They also have rooms to book if you want to stay for longer.

Yat Rock

A few metres from the Saracen’s Head is the path to the top of Yat Rock.  It’s a steep climb up to the top through shaded woodland, but the climb is worth it for the stunning views that will greet you when you arrive. You can see for miles, what a view!  Don’t forget your binoculars. 

There is an alternative slightly longer, but gentler walk which we took on the way down avoiding the steep steps.  For those unable to undertake the climb there is road access and a parking area at the top. You can also enjoy a cup of tea in the cafe here. 

  • Yat Rock signpost

On the walk we saw an interesting site we have never encountered before. People have hammered coins into a fallen tree so producing a remarkable piece of artwork. We were visiting with our friends from Australia, so if you look closely you may see a couple of Australian coins.

Peregrine Falcons, deer and wild boar

The forest is home to a wide variety of wildlife.  From the top of Symonds Yat Rock you may be lucky enough to see a peregrine falcon as it swoops down from the cliffs looking for prey.  More common are the goshawks who also make their homes in the rocky surrounds. Deer, though shy of humans, are plentiful in the forest.   We were lucky enough to see a foal dancing in and out of the trees below on our most recent visit to Yat Rock. On a previous visit we even saw some of the forest’s wild boar.  Farm pigs released into the forest have bred and are now happily living there as wild boar. There are not many areas in Britain where wild boar live but the surrounds of Symonds Yat is one of them.

Arguably, the most majestic animal in the area is the salmon. Yearly, salmon swim up the river to their breeding grounds.  There are some wonderful pictures of caught salmon in the local pubs. If you are very lucky, River Wye salmon may be on the menu in one of them!

Canoe trips

If you don’t want to walk along the river you could always go by canoe.  There are lots of options for you to do this, from a half day trip to a few days, you can choose whichever suits you best.  You’ll get a unique view along the way and can stop off wherever you want. There are a number of companies offering canoeing activities catering for individuals, families and groups.

Getting Around Symonds Yat

Though the area is very small, travelling around it by car can take a long time as there are no road bridges across the river.  The local roads are also narrow and single lane in places. This means there can be considerable congestion in the busy summer months and at Bank Holidays.  Be aware!

Parking

The largest car park is at Yat Rock where there is also a cafe and toilet facilities. You may also find parking at the riverside, but it may be busier, particularly at Symonds Yat East which is the more popular of the two Symonds Yats.  Parking is also available at the Paddocks Hotel, Symonds Yat West. Some of the canoe activities start from here. 

History of the area

The river now only lazily meanders through the forest but it was once at the head of a great glacial, ice age movement which created the magnificent gorge which is Symonds Yat today.  Beneath the surface, those same historic events were creating a unique geological foundation for the area, rich in coal, iron ore and limestone. An excellent account of how the special geology of the area gave birth to modern Symonds Yat can be found at this link:  https://www.geoexpro.com/articles/2014/09/the-forest-of-dean-scowles-sheep-ancient-oaks

Because of its rich mineral deposits, Symonds Yat has been a mining area since ancient times.  In the Middle-Ages, local miners gained special Royal privileges and the rights of “Free Miners”  are held by families to this day. The Industrial Revolution saw a massive expansion of coal mining and iron production.  Valuable limestone deposits were also mined and the remains of a limestone kiln can be seen on the banks of the river at Symonds Yat West.  There is a record of a coal mine in Symonds Yat, but I have not been able to find its location. However, evidence of the forest’s numerous coal mines can be found all around the area.  The 20th century saw a decline in mining and iron production and tourism gradually became the main industry of the area. If you wish to learn more of the industrial heritage of the area, then I’d recommend a visit to the nearby Dean Heritage Centre which is trying to keep that heritage alive.  Details are at this link: https://www.deanheritagecentre.com/

Running in Symonds Yat

Although people think of Symonds Yat as a great place for walking, it is also a great place for running. There is a path along the riverbank from Symonds Yat which goes all the way to Monmouth.  It’s about 5 miles in length. You can use a visit here to do some great traffic-free training on this path and at the same time enjoy the stunning scenery. 

If you are here for the weekend then I do recommend you pop down the few miles to Coleford for the local Saturday morning parkrun.  Click here to read our blog on the Forest of Dean Parkrun

We would love to hear your thoughts in the comments section below. Please share with anyone you think may be interested. See you again soon!

Oban: Gateway to the Western Isles

View of Oban from the ferry

Our journey to Oban on the west coast of Scotland began with a 3 hour scenic train journey from Glasgow.  The journey is ranked amongst the top train journeys in the world and it didn’t disappoint. After leaving urban Glasgow the journey follows the wonderful river Clyde as it meanders through the glens on its slow voyage down to the coast.  We felt like we were on holiday right from the start. We’d bought advance tickets for only £10.50 each, so this was definitely a bargain buy. Another bonus was the amazing things you can learn on journeys like this by talking to your fellow passengers. We learned about the art of sailing from two delightful people who happened to be sitting next to us.  Oban is now a centre for yachting holidays and our two companions were going on sailing trips from Oban.   Here are a few photos from our train journey.

We stayed in a small B&B a short walk from the town centre and train station. A great location and full Scottish breakfast.


If you still feel the need to eat later in the day after your breakfast then there are lots of places where you can eat. One of the most popular spots was the Oban Fish and Chip Shop – claimed as one of the best chip shops in Scotland according to The Scotsman newspaper.  We thought it a little pricey and crowded so we ended ended up eating our fish and chips in the excellent Wetherspoons situated by the harbour. Great value, quick service and lovely views.  

Another popular place to visit is Oban distillery in the heart of Oban.  A great place to visit if you have a rainy day, or if you would like to try a wee dram or two!


McCaig’s Tower was one of the sites we wanted to see.  This is a circular monument built in the 19th century by a local dignitary. It’s a steep walk up the hill from the town centre to see the structure which from a distance resembles the Colosseum of Rome.  It gives you a great view of the harbour and bay. Unfortunately for us it was raining when we went up there but it was still worth it for the panoramic views it gave. It is accessible by car for those who don’t wish to walk and there is car parking nearby.  For the more energetic, it’s well worth the effort walking up the hill, even if it’s raining!

Oban harbourside

The harbour is an ideal place to watch the ferries coming and going and to eat some of the freshly caught seafood. The harbour’s fame for good seafood now attracts many Chinese visitors so do not be surprised if you hear more Mandarin being spoken than English as you eat your meal!

As we left Oban for our onward journey to the Outer Hebrides we saw a young piper on the harbourside.  Visitors and locals alike enjoyed listening to the young man who proudly played his pipes and who we thought, was very good.  It was certainly unexpected entertainment for the many travellers waiting at the ferry terminal. The terminal is the onward transit point to many of Scottish islands. It is here that we later boarded the ferry to the first stop on our Hebridian adventure,  the small, but lovely Island of Barra.  

History of Oban

Oban began life as a small fishing port on the West coast of Scotland. It only started to grow with the establishment of a distillery in 1794.  The railway which connected Oban with the hinterland arrived a century later in 1880 so the town experienced little of the rapid Victorian urban growth that some Scottish towns experienced.

Oban was an important military base in the Second World War when it was used as a centre for anti-submarine warfare.   Since the 1950s, tourism has been the dominant industry in the town and Oban now acts as the ferry port for both the Inner and Outer Hebridean islands.

Despite being only a small town, Oban has a number of impressive churches with the Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Columba being particularly impressive.  If St. Columba isn’t to your liking then you can visit one of the many other denomination churches. In Oban you are spoilt for choice! 

Scotland has many war memorials and Oban’s memorial is particularly emotive and worth viewing.  Situated at the side of the road going out towards Ganavan, the memorial is a statue depicting two soldiers carrying their wounded comrade. The statue has a silent dignity that expresses so much about human nature.  Personally, I rank the Oban memorial as one of the most memorable war memorials I have visited. I recommend it for a few minutes of contemplative respect. 

Running in Oban

The free local Saturday parkrun attracts park run tourists from all over the UK and beyond.  In the Summer months there could be more tourists running the race than locals! The race starts by a local caravan site near Ganavan Sands, hence the parkrun is called the Ganavan Sands Park Run.  With 275ft of climbs the run is ranked as one of the toughest 40 park runs in the UK so do not expect a PB. The start is in a wonderful setting, by the sea which some runners go into for a post run cool down and swim!  All visitors are treated with wonderful Scottish hospitality which helps to make Oban’s parkrun one of the top rated amongst park run enthusiasts.

When you go to Oban you should make a special effort to do the parkrun.  You’ll enjoy it.

We only had a short stay in picturesque Oban before we continued our journey to the Western Isles. We wished we had longer and it’s on our list of places to visit again. 

Forest of Dean Parkrun

If you want to experience a truly enjoyable trail parkrun, then it is hard to beat the Forest of Dean parkrun.  It is set in the heart of the forest, a recognised area of outstanding natural beauty, on the outskirts of the small town of Coleford. The friendly parkrun volunteers offer a warm welcome to parkrun tourists and other visitors to this beautiful part of the country.  

Getting there and Parking

The parkrun start is just off the A4136 about 6 miles from Monmouth.  This is a good road and easy to drive. However, should you come from the Ross-on-Wye direction, you may be tempted to take the short route via Symonds Yat East.  This route is stunningly scenic but some of the roads are very narrow with only a few passing points. If you are not used to driving on such narrow country roads, particularly in the busy Summer months, the longer route via Monmouth may be advisable.

The website recommends parking at the local Berry Hill Rugby club, which is an 8 minute walk from the start.    https://www.parkrun.org.uk/forest-of-dean/course/  

However, if you arrive before 8.25 am you should be able to park in the local school, The Five Acres High School, which is literally just across the road from the start.  In the holiday season it may be wise to park at the rugby club as up to 250 runners could be running and parking places will be taken early at the school.

Insect Bites

Just a little word of warning: as you will be in a forest you may get bitten!  Mary got bit 5 times just watching me as I ran the course! Oh why didn’t we remember to bring the Avon Skin So Soft spray with us? Lesson learnt – bring insect repellent to any parkrun in a wooded area or near water during the summer mosquito season!

Course Features

The course is a fairly flat route with only a couple of gradual inclines.  However, it is a trail course and so it could get muddy after rain or if the days or weeks before have been rainy.  Trail running shoes may be more appropriate footwear for wet conditions. When I ran the weather had been dry so my normal running shoes sufficed.  However, there were still a few muddy patches remaining despite the dry weather.

Logs, branches on the course- any chance of a PB?

As the course is through a forest you have to be careful with your footing. There may be the occasional log to jump or tree root to avoid.  You just have to take care. Needless to say, such a course means the Forest of Dean parkrun is not a PB course but the lack of steep gradients makes it a relatively fast run.

A nice feature about this run is that the course is permanently marked so you can run it any time if you are in the area.  The excellent markings make it easy to follow the route. There is also a large map at the start of the run showing a detailed outline of the course

Just to add a little bit of fun there is a bell at the end of the run in the finishing funnel.   The sign says: ring if you have a PB, birthday, you’re a tourist or ring just because you want to. What a nice thing to do.  I rang it is as I was a first-timer and it brought a smile to my face and to the faces of the other runners there. 

It wouldn’t be a good parkrun without tea and coffee at the end.  We loved the refreshment set up here. Only 50p for a tea or coffee, and a variety of delightful cakes were on sale for the the same price.  We left the Forest of Dean after our refreshments saying we would definitely come again.  We hope you do, too.

History of Parkrun

The first parkrun was back in 2004 in Bushy Park, Teddington, London.  The brainchild of Paul and Joanne Sinton-Hewit, the parkrun idea spread rapidly spread throughout the UK and Ireland.  It is now a global phenomena which holds true to the founding principles wherever it is run. A short history of the parkrun can be found at this link: https://www.parkrun.com/about/our-story/

For more information on parkrun including details of where they are held see Parkrun website: https://www.parkrun.org.uk/