Kanchanaburi is the beautiful town made famous by the classic 1957 movie, Bridge on the River Kwai. It’s still a brilliant film which has aged well with time. The film was based on a true World War 2 event: the building of a railway bridge by Allied prisoners when they were held captive by the Japanese. Anyone going to Thailand should consider visiting the town, to see the bridge itself, the many moving memorials dedicated to those who died building the bridge, and to simply enjoy the area’s tranquil, natural beauty. Of all of Thailand’s many tourist spots, this is the one you should not miss.
There are many Bridge over the River Kwai tours available in Bangkok. We chose independent travel and took the 7.45 am train to Kanchanaburi from Bangkok’s Thonburi station. It is a leisurely two and half hours journey which passes through some of Thailand’s most fertile countryside. At just 100 baht each way it’s excellent value.
On board the train we sat on wooden seats. The windows open all the way down so that you can lean out and take photos if you wish. Vendors join the train at various points to sell snacks and drinks. It all adds to the day’s sense of adventure.
The train stops just before the bridge to let passengers and tourists off to take photos. Photographs having been taken, those that wish to, can realight the train. With its passengers back on board, the train then begins a very, very slow crossing, enabling people standing on the bridge to take photos as the train passes only inches away. We got some great photos at this moment. The train then proceeds on its journey towards Nam Tok and the stunning Erewan waterfalls. If you decide to get off at the bridge, then you will have a few hours to explore the area, visit the war museum and cemetery, before catching the train on the return journey to Bangkok. This is what we did.
Military vehicle
The beautiful Buddhist shrine to the Goddess of Mercy, the Guam Im Sutham Temple, is visible from the bridge and only a couple of hundred metres walk away. Definitely worth a visit.
There are a number of restaurants nearby where you can have some lunch and enjoy the riverside views. We ate a Thai curry washed down with an iced coffee at the floating River Kwai restaurant. Delicious.
We then hired a tuk-tuk costing 100 baht for the short ride to the: Death Railway Museum and the Commonwealth War Graves Cemetery. Even though the world war ended over 70 years ago, looking at the exhibits in the museum was a powerful, emotional experience. The photos here show just a little of what you can see at the museum.
Just across the road from the museum is the cemetery. Walking amongst the immaculately maintained gravestones is an equally emotional experience. Though the majority of graves are of Commonwealth soldiers, a large number of Dutch soldiers are also buried in the cemetery. So though you will meet many Australians and New Zealanders paying their respects to those who have died, you will also meet many Dutch visitors paying their respects. Even though the cemetery represents an appalling period of history, there is an intangible beauty about it. It is heartening that people who died so long ago are still remembered.
Kanchanaburi railway station is just a five minutes walk from the cemetery. On our journey back to Bangkok we discussed all that we had done and seen during the day. One thing we decided on. We would visit Kanchanaburi again, but this time stay longer.
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Coventry’s War Memorial Park is the city’s most popular leisure facility and one of the country’s most successful local parks. As a living memorial to the fallen of Britain’s 20th century wars, the park is up there amongst the best. The 48 acre park was opened in July 1921, originally, as a tribute to the 2,587 Coventrians who died between 1914 and 1918 fighting in the First World War. Memorials have since been added to commemorate the fallen of other conflicts in the twentieth century. 2021 will be the centenary of the park’s opening.
The park is a triumph of a 100 years of green space just a 15 minute walk from the city centre. Any visitor to Coventry should make the time to visit the park to enjoy its many features.
The park’s principal feature is the towering memorial monument. This imposing monument greets the visitor who enters the park from Kenilworth/Leamington Road entrance. Standing at the top of an avenue of trees, the memorial dominates the landscape by its silent, dignified presence. An eternal flame flickers at the top of the tower as a reminder of that Great War of a hundred years ago.
Alongside the avenue is a moving memorial to Athur Hutt, a Coventry born serviceman who was awarded the Victoria Cross. A few metres further on there is a memorial to the men and women of the WW2 airborne services. Trees throughout the park are dedicated to individual service men and women who died for their country. Plaques at the base of the trees commemorate their deaths. At the north end of the park are the concrete remains of a barrage balloon station. These barage balloons were used to protect the city against enemy air attack. Sadly, they did not prevent the city suffering from severe enemy air attacks in WW2.
The theme of the park is now reconciliation and a beautiful German garden has been constructed as a symbol of that reconciliation. A Japanese garden is in the process of being created and it should be complete by early 2021. The German and Japanese gardens are but two of many stunning gardens that decorate the park. Regardless of the season a walk through the park gives the eyes a spectacle of colour. Then there are trees cleverly spaced around the park adding to the park’s natural beauty. The park really is a nature lover’s delight.
Sport is not forgotten in the park. There are football pitches, tennis courts, a bowling green and a recently developed “Footgolf” course. A cross between football and golf, Footgolf is one of those novel features which makes the park so special. The park has a skate board area, swings, climbing area, an aviary and water play area. This makes it a great place to take the children.
The park has two cafes. One of the cafes is housed in the visitor centre which has a small picture history of the park.
The park is home to one of the country’s best attended Saturday morning 5K parkruns and a friendly welcome is given to all parkrun tourists. The park’s other cafe is a meeting place for these runners. Manageress Kim has a special smile on her face on Saturday mornings when she greets runners who come to her cafe for a post run cup of tea and a bacon batch. A bacon batch is a Coventry speciality and Kim makes one of the best. Sadly, the parkrun is temporarily postponed due to Covid-19.
The park hosts the annual Godiva Music Festival. The festival attracts musicians from around the country and from around the world. As an affordable alternative to Glastonbury, the Godiva Festival is a must for music lovers. See our blog post on the Godiva Festival for more information.
Coventry’s War Memorial Park has so much to offer and it is so much more than just another city park. The only way you can discover Coventry’s War Memorial park is to visit it. You will be pleased if you do.
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You will not forget your visit to the Isle of Skye. The superlatives, the adjectives, all the flowing words of praise that have been written about the island, are correct. If anything, they do not do it justice. It really is an island travellers should visit. Skye really is something special.
We took the Calmac ferry from Tarbert on the Isle of Harris to dock in Uig, the small port which resides in a sheltered bay on the north-west coast of Skye. It was a lovely sea crossing which had the added bonus of giving us superb views of the other islands that lie off the Scottish mainland. Of course, we think the best way to see Skye, is to go over the sea to it!
Portree is a small, but busy little town situated halfway along the eastern coastline of the island. Portree’s central location makes it a great centre to tour the island from. We were happy to stay in lovely B&B which had the option of delicious pancakes or a full Scottish breakfast. After 2 weeks of touring the Western Isles and having a full Scottish breakfast every day the pancakes were a real treat as were the fresh home-made scones baked daily. We can highly recommend a stay at Gleann an Ronnaich
Skye is a deceptively large island. It’s over 100 kilometres in length with a land area greater than 1,500 square kilometres. Even from Portree it may take over an hour and a half to drive to some of the popular tourist sites on the far north and south of the island. You have to spend at least a few days on Skye to appreciate all that the island can offer.
We enjoyed Portree itself. There is a scenic circular walk that starts by the harbour in the centre of the town. It provides great coastal views all the way across the sea to the nearby island of Raasay. The walk took us about 90 minutes and at its end we were ready for a cup of coffee and a cake. Portree has lots of bars and cafes to choose from.
Some views on the walk around Portree
Skye can get very busy during the peak summer months though we personally had no difficulties in finding a table when we wanted to eat and we were there in July. However, if you want to eat somewhere extra special and would like some fine dining in places like the Three Chimneys in Colbost, then you must book in advance, even outside of the summer months.
Peak congestion is when a stream of coaches disembark their passengers in the town all at the same time. Then, Portree can seem very busy indeed! Again, though some restaurants required pre-booking for an evening meal, we had no problem finding a free table when we ate out. We tend to eat our evening meal between 5-6 pm. Had we eaten later, finding a table may have been more problematic. Eating early has the additional advantage that you may finish your meal just in time to see and hear the Isle of Skye Pipe Band which regularly parades through the town centre. We enjoyed a rousing performance from the band with the Pipe major being particularly impressive marching up and down in full Highland regalia. The Band’s parades in the town are advertised locally and we would strongly recommend you see the Band if you are in Portree.
Skye is one of those rare holiday destinations where the reality of being there is better than what brochures advertise. From the Old Man of Storr to the Neist Point Lighthouse, none of the island’s fabled attractions disappoint. We hired a car in Skye and simply travelling across the island was a wonderful experience with breathtaking views around every corner. Our journey times were much longer than planned because we kept stopping to take photos of the wonderful landscapes we kept on meeting. Skye really is a beautiful island. This is our favourite photograph of our stay, the view just stopped us in our tracks!
There is a caveat to touring Scotland’s most famous island. The whole world has now heard of Skye’s natural beauty and and at times it may seem the whole world is queuing up to see it. The traditional tourists from North America and England are now accompanied by tourists from Europe, China and South America. There can be traffic congestion near the most popular spots and you may find yourself amongst a small crowd of people when trying to get that perfect photo. Skye is still worth visiting despite the increased number of visitors. And to put Skye in perspective, it is much less crowded than Devon, Cornwall or the Lake District during the peak holiday season. We would recommend visiting the most popular sites early in the morning or late evening when day-trippers and coach parties are not there. Take advantage of the long daylight hours that are past 11.00 pm in the summer months. Travelling around Skye in the early evening is much quieter than during the day. It is the time when the local sheep population take over the roads and we got some great pictures of sheep on our way back after an evening sunset. The sheep weren’t bothered by the crowds!
Here are a few samples of the beautiful places we saw in Skye, There were so many places we were not able to see, we will have to visit Skye again.
Neist Point
Kilt Rock
Flora MacDonald and Skye
Skye has had a long and often turbulent history. Its role in the 1745 Jacobite Rebellion has been immortalised in the song: Over the Sea to Skye. The song commemorates how Flora MacDonald helped the rebel leader Bonnie Prince Charlie escape chasing Hanoverian troops. The Prince had been hiding on the neighbouring Hebridean island of South Uist. Flora MacDonald disguised the Prince as her maid. She and the Prince first travelled to the Isle of Benbecula where they boarded a boat which, as the song says, went over the sea to Skye. From Skye, the Prince was taken on another short boat journey to Raasay, where he boarded a vessel which eventually took him to safety in France.
Flora MacDonald was imprisoned for over a year for her part in the Prince’s daring escape. The irony is that a number of Flora’s family were supporters of the Hanoverian cause! She and her family later emigrated to America where she became involved in that country’s rebellion against the British. Sadly, the family lost its lands in that rebellion and so she had to return to Skye. Her burial place at Kilmuir has a fitting memorial to this remarkable woman. It is well worth a visit.
Flora MacDonald graveyard
Over the Bridge to Skye
Built in 1995 the Skye road bridge has transformed the economy of Skye with day-trippers now visiting the island from as far away is Edinburgh. Prior to the bridge being built visitors would have to catch the ferry which made the short sea crossing from the mainland port at the Kyle of Lochalsh. Though only a few hundred metres in length, the bridge is a feat of engineering skill and well worth taking the time to explore.
The bridge spans the small island of Eilean Ban which is home to a lighthouse and a nature reserve run by Ring of Bright Water author, Gavin Maxwell. It is worth parking your car and walking across the bridge to see the lighthouse and the spectacular views the bridge provides. Tours are available around Eilean Ban’s nature reserve on request.
Eilean Donan Castle
About 2 miles along the road from the bridge is one of Scotland’s most impressive castles, Eileen Donan castle. The castle has a long history and it played a pivotal role in the 1719 rebellion when a garrison of Spanish troops defended the castle against British soldiers. If you are travelling by car to Skye then take the time to visit it. In recent years it has been used as a film location for lots of films including Highlander (1986), Loch Ness (1996) and James Bond – The World is Not Enough (1999)
The views looking out from the castle are pretty special too.
Isle of Skye Running
One of the best ways to see Skye is to take part in the island’s annual half-marathon race which is held in early June. Details can be found here: Skye half marathon
Though the island does not have a parkrun, it has an established athletics club and members meet in Portree on Wednesday evenings for a club run. Perhaps you could join them when you visit the island? Details of Skye running can be found on the club website: Skye and Lochalsh RC
We left our hire car at the Kyle of Lochalsh railway station as we said goodbye to Skye. There was a plaque here to commemorate the 1919 Iolaire disaster (see our blog on the Isle of lewis for more details). We then took another scenic train journey, this time to Inverness where our trip ended with a flight home. It was a fantastic trip all through the Outer Hebrides and Skye. It left us wanting to see and explore more Scottish islands. Keep a look-out on our blog for where our adventures will take us next.
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The Isle of Lewis is the northern part of the Hebridean island commonly referred to as Lewis and Harris. The reasons for the split between the Isles of Lewis and the Isles of Harris are now lost in history but may be due to rivalry within the dominant local clan, the Macleod clan. Even as recent as 1975, Lewis was a separate administrative region, a part of the mainland county of Ross and Cromarty. Harris was an administrative region of Inverness Shire. Now, both Harris and Lewis are a part of the Western Isles Council.
We took the short ferry crossing from Berneray and arrived at Tarbert on the Isle of Harris. Calmac Ferries have a great value passenger ticket called the Hopscotch 23. We used this ticket for all our ferry journeys between the islands and we would recommend it.
Harris and Lewis are connected by a short isthmus just north of Tarbert. The official boundary between the two isles is a few miles north of Tarbert and crosses the rugged terrain of Harris. There is a scenic walk that follows the boundary. We never did the walk but details can be found at this website for anyone who wishes to enjoy the challenge of doing it. https://marccalhoun.blogspot.com/2018/03/lewisharris-border.html
Though only a small town of less than a thousand people, Tarbert boasts its own Harris Distillery, set in a modern building. The distillery has a wide selection of both whiskeys and gins to be sampled. It is definitely worth a visit. Tarbert also boast an impressive War Memorial which has pride of place in the centre of the town. Again, worth a visit.
Our time in Tarbert was too short. When our bus arrived we set off on the next part of our journey, across the island to arrive in Stornoway, on the north east side of Lewis. The scenery was quite brilliant and we took scores of pictures through the bus window as we travelled through Harris on our way up to Lewis. Some of the beaches we passed were just stunning. When we come again, we will have to spend more time in Harris.
Stornoway
Though Stornoway has a population of less than 10,000, it has a big town feel with plenty of shops, restaurants and pubs. The town is successful and has ambitious plans for the future. Tourists now come to visit the town from all over Britain and beyond. When a cruise ship pulls into the harbour, a thousand or more people can disembark crowding the shops in their quest for souvenirs. Tasty food treats can be found in Stornoway. You can buy Hebridean mustard, smoked fish from the Stornoway Smokehouse or try one of the many flavoured teas from the Hebridean tea store in the town centre. Non food gifts and treats can also be found. Looking through the shop windows may tempt you to buy some beautiful local pottery, paintings, wooden toys or Harris tweed. At weekends, visitors fly in from Glasgow and Edinburgh to enjoy a stay on yachts which are moored in the harbour. A new marina is being constructed to cater for this growing luxury market.
Yet despite this bustle, Stornoway is still a remarkably relaxed town which holds onto its traditions fiercely. In accordance with its strict Protestant outlook, Sunday in Stornoway remains the Sabbath day and many shops are closed as a mark of respect. Buses do not run on Sunday. Sunday in Stornoway is a day of quiet relaxation. It is a day to walk down to the harbour and watch the resident seals as they play in the water. It is the day to stroll through the manicured gardens of the splendid Lews castle. The castle is home to 6 of the famous Lewis Chessmen. The castle is worth a visit just to see these exquisitely crafted works of art.
Sunday is the day to contemplate the Iolaire memorial which now rests in the harbour shore. On 1 January 1919, the SS Iolaire hit rocks just a few hundred metres from the safety of Stornoway harbour. Two hundred and five servicemen were drowned on that cruel New Year day. They had survived the Great War only to have life taken from them when so close to home. The tragedy of that day is still remembered in Stornoway and a wooden outline of the ship has been constructed in the harbour as the new memorial. Every wooden post represents a life lost. At night the outline is lit-up. It is a poignant and dignified tribute to the servicemen that died that day so close to home. A stay in Stornoway is not complete without visiting it.
Iolaire Memorial
About a mile outside the town on the headland is a more traditional stone memorial to the SS Iolaire. Looking over the sea and the rocks where the disaster struck, this memorial is also worth a visit.
Herring Fishing and Stornoway
Herring fishing was the main industry of Stornoway up to the First World War. Fishing boats still operate out of the harbour but the modern industry is a shadow of its past when it was claimed you could run from one side of the harbour to the other going from fishing boat to fishing boat. Sadly, the Herring fishing industry collapsed in the post war depression. Throughout the town you can see statues which commemorate the Herring Girls who played a vital part in the industry, gutting and boxing the fish when they were landed. Local historian Donald Murray has written an excellent account of the Herring industry in his book: Herring Tales. If you want to understand the character of Stornoway you must understand the important role that Herring fishing played in developing that character. I’d recommend Murray’s book as a good read.
Lewis’s Bus Service, the Callanish Stones and other Attractions
Stornoway is a great base to discover the many attractions on the Isle of Lewis. Sunday apart, there are good, regular bus services to the major tourist destinations on the island. Travelling by bus is also a relaxed way to see the island, and a great way to meet local people. The bus service doubles up as a local courier service delivering and collecting parcels from outlying settlements. Travelling by bus makes you feel a part of the island community and we enjoyed it so much that we’d recommend leaving the car at home and going by bus.
We were blessed with dry, warm weather when we took the bus to the Callanish Stones. Perhaps not as famous as Stonehenge, there are three neolithic stone circles that can be visited in the Callanish area. Unlike Stonehenge, they are easily accessible and there are not hordes of visitors queuing up to see the Stones. There is a visitor centre which includes a shop and cafe with lots of information on the site. You can walk from one of the stone sites to another and there is no cost for visiting them. We found it so funny seeing cows grazing on the grass by the standing stones. Cows have been grazing here for the 5000 years since the stones were first erected. I hope they continue to do so for the next 5000 years.
The Blackhouse Village
Our second stop on the bus was to visit the Blackhouse Village. The Village is a cluster of restored crofts and they represent the type of crofts islanders lived in from the 17th century to the 1970’s. There is a small fee to enter the village which is manned by volunteers who explain how local people lived and worked in these crofts. I did enjoy the scent of peat burning on the range. Some of the crofts can now be rented out for short stay visits though I was told you may have to book long in advance to get a letting in the popular Summer months. The village has majestic views over the sea and the coast paths provide great walking trails nearby.
A visit to the Blackhouse Village is a great day out and we recommend it.
Shawbost Norse Mill and Kiln
Our third stop on the bus tour was to another historic site worth a visit: the Norse Mill and Kiln. This is the remains of a long past mill and kiln which is open to the public. The mill is accessible via a short, though occasionally boggy walk from the road. A notice board gives a short explanation of the history and how the mill and kiln operated. Though not the most spectacular of Lewis’s attractions, the mill is worth a visit, particularly if you have an interest in history.
Running in Stornoway and Lewis
The quiet roads of Lewis offer ample opportunity for training runs. We stayed in Stornoway and I enjoyed running out of the town towards the Iolaire Memorial. It was peaceful, safe running and a great way to see the coastal views.
The grounds of Lews Castle also offer great running routes and local runners can often be seen on the paths around the castle. At the time of writing there is no Parkrun in Stornoway. I was told by local runners that plans are being made to stage a parkrun in the grounds of Lews Castle. Watch this space …
Half-Marathon and 10K
The Stornoway Running and Athletics club organise a Half-Marathon and 10K race usually in the late Spring. Details can be found here: https://srac.org.uk/half/
History of the Isle of Lewis
The island has had a long tumultuous history which has seen Irish, Norse and Lowland Scottish families dominate the politics of the island. The island was a part of the kingdom of Norway until 1266 when it became the possession of the Scottish crown in Edinburgh. The clan MacLeod dominated local politics till the early years of the Stuarts when the MacKenzies clan took control of the island. In 1844 the MacKenzies sold the island to Sir James Matheson who had made his fortune trading in China. It was he who co-founded the Jardine-Matheson conglomerate.
Matheson’s ownership of the island is one of the most controversial periods of the island’s history. Many crofters were dispossessed of their lands to make way for sheep farming and hunting. Poverty and emigration gripped the island. There were land riots in the 1880s. Though conditions improved towards the end of the century the bitterness between the Mathesons and the islanders remained.
In 1918 the industrialist Lord Leverhulme bought the island with the intention of re-industrialising the Herring industry in the Stornoway area. A large part of the population did not trust Leverhulme or his plans for new industry. Land ownership rights again became a fractious political issue amongst islanders. Some returning servicemen from the Great War took matters into their own hands and organised “Land Raids”. Leverhulme saw his plans would not work and faced with failure he gave Stornoway back to its people in 1923. The Stornoway Trust now administers the town on behalf of its people. This political arrangement may be unique in the UK.
Lews Castle regularly has exhibitions on the Isle of Lewis and Stornoway’s fascinating history. You may be lucky and be able to visit such an exhibition whilst on your stay on the island.
We travelled back to Tarbert in Harris after our short stay in Lewis. We then caught the ferry on our Hopscotch 23 route over the sea to the Isle of Skye.
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After our short visit to Eriskay (see previous blog), we drove over the next causeway to South Uist. I loved the rocky landscape that greeted us here. We just had to stop and take some photos.
As it was raining and as the visibility was poor we decided to continue on to find our accommodation in Benbecula and not to stop along the way. This meant following the main road and travelling over more causeways. We stayed in a beautiful B&B on a croft. We were welcomed with tea and cake which was just what we needed after our journey.
The landscape of Benbecula was very different to the landscape we had encountered in the other islands of the Western Isles. It was flat and reminded us somewhat of East Anglia in England. On a clear day you can see for miles in every direction, though when we arrived, low clouds reduced visibility to about 50 metres!
South Uist is the birthplace of Flora Macdonald who famously helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape capture after the failed rebellion of 1745/6. We had planned a short stop at the Flora MacDonald memorial which was on the route to our B&B. However, visibility was so poor we missed the signs for the memorial and later almost missed the turn off for our accommodation!
Travelling in Benbecula
There is a small airport in Benbecula. Scotland’s airline, Loganair, operate flights to Stornoway, Inverness, Glasgow and Edinburgh. There’s a little cafe here that is popular with locals as well as travellers. The only other way to get to Benbecula is by road via South or North Uist. There is a bus service, but if you are used to the busy, frequent service of a big city, you’ll be disappointed. Buses do not operate on Sundays. Benebecula still respects Presbyterian traditional values. Keeping the Sabbath holy and bus free is one of them. It is worth knowing if you are here for a weekend and wish to use public transport. We were glad that we had chosen to a hire car for this part of our trip!
Walking in Benbecula
There are many scenic walks along the beautiful coastline around the island. We discovered a lovely beach with sand dunes and white sand: it was Cula Bay. The bay is popular with surfers and it was only a short distance from where we stayed. It was remarkable to see surfers braving the Atlantic waves so far north, but the Gulf Stream makes the sea temperature quite mild. For experienced surfers, the Atlantic breakers of Benbecula make the island’s surfing amongst the best in Britain, if not the world!
On a very windy day we decided to climb the Rueval, the highest point in the island. At 124m high, it rises from sea level to give extraordinary views up and down the Outer Hebrides. We drove to Market Stance and took the path to the summit. It is claimed, that the cave where Bonnie Prince Charlie is said to have hidden whilst waiting for Flora MacDonald to arrange his escape, is on this walk. We met a few walkers on the way including an 84 year old lady who did the walk every day. She was a hardy type, born and bred Benbecula, and no amount of wind or rain was going to stop her!
Peat is still gathered for fuel on the island. It was fascinating to see it cut up and drying out at the side of our path along the walk.
Eating Out
Benebecula was the quietest island of the islands we visited on our holiday. As such, there was only a limited choice of places where to eat. We stayed in the Balivanich area, near the airport. Here, there are two restaurants to choose from, The Stepping Stones and Charlie’s Bistro. A little further south was the Dark Island hotel where you could go for a meal or a drink in the bar. All three places were good and not too expensive but you may have to book a table in The Stepping Stones and Charlie’s Bistro in the busier summer months.
We didn’t find any pubs on the island, though we were told one bar opens up at weekends in the town of Balivanich. Lunch time you could try the airport cafe or the nearby riding school which provide teas, coffees and sandwiches at reasonable prices.
The Military Presence in Benbecula
The more observant traveller to Benbecula will soon become aware of the island’s military connections. The island is a key centre of the North Atlantic, NATO communication system. Though discreetly hidden away, the island is the home for military radar stations, NATO personnel from various countries often visit the island for combined operational exercises. So it is quite possible some of those Canadian, Dutch or Italian “tourists” you meet, are in reality military communication experts having a quiet break from an intense military operation!
History – Nunton Land Raids
The Highland Clearances were one of the saddest episodes of 18th and early 19th century Scottish history. Landlords removed crofting families from their estates to make way for more profitable sheep farming. Government legislation in the mid-19th century stopped the worst excesses of the Clearances but land ownership remained a bitterly contested subject into the 20th century. Some soldiers returning from the First World War took matters into their own hands and occupied crofts that they believed to be rightfully their property. Such actions were called “Land Raids” and one of the most famous land raids was the “Nunton Farm Land Raid” of 1923. There is a plaque on an old building near our B&B commemorating this event. Even today, the subject of crofting rights brings back bitter memories of past injustices to islanders.
Running in Benbecula
There is no parkrun in either South/North Uist or Benbecula as the islands have such small populations. On the positive side, the low population means that the quiet roads provide an excellent training ground. The flat terrain is an added bonus for those used to the strain of constantly running up hills!
There is an annual half marathon race in June and a 10K race in the Spring. Both races get booked up quickly so enter early if you are thinking of taking part. The half-marathon is one of the 5 Western Isles half-marathons. If you run 3 of these half-marathons you will qualify for the prestigious HEB3 award. What a fantastic way to spend a summer: running the Hebridean islands! Click here for more details.
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Symonds Yat, in the heart of the Forest of Dean, is one of the country’s most picturesque tourist locations. Besides its natural beauty it has a wealth of activities for visitors to sample. There are actually two Symonds Yat: Symonds Yat East and Symonds Yat West, two small hamlets which face each other on opposing sides of the River Wye.
There is a picturesque, flat circular walk from Symonds Yat East which takes approximately 1.5 hours, depending on how often you stop to admire the views or take photographs! We walked from the Saracen’s Head pub, keeping the river on our right until we reached a footbridge crossing the river.
Bridge over River Wye
After crossing the bridge there was an enticing sign to Biblins Tea Garden where we went for a short break. As it was such a beautiful day we sat outside and what a joy it was to see a swallow’s nest above us. The swallows were feeding their young and didn’t seem bothered by the people nearby.
The owners of the Tea Gardens are very friendly people who are renovating the 500 year old property adjoining the gardens. It’s a wonderful building and blends in perfectly with the landscape. You can visit their Facebook page here: https://www.facebook.com/BiblinsTeaGarden
We then continued our walk, still keeping the river on our right walking back towards Symonds Yat West.
You can catch the hand ferry across the river. It costs about £2 each and it is a quick way to get to the other side where you can stop for a break at the Saracen’s Head if you wish.
Hand ferry across Wye river
Ye Old Ferrie Inn
If you don’t want to cross at the Saracen’s Head, you can continue your walk for a few hundred metres to another pub called Ye Old Ferrie Inn. They also have a hand ferry crossing the river here too. On the other side you can follow the riverside path the few hundred metres back to the Saracen’s Head. Ye Old Ferrie Inn was named in the Guardian newspaper (August 2022) as one the best waterside pubs in the UK. We agree! We visited recently and had a delicious meal there and it was lovely to discover all the food was sourced locally. They also have rooms to book if you want to stay for longer.
Yat Rock
A few metres from the Saracen’s Head is the path to the top of Yat Rock. It’s a steep climb up to the top through shaded woodland, but the climb is worth it for the stunning views that will greet you when you arrive. You can see for miles, what a view! Don’t forget your binoculars.
There is an alternative slightly longer, but gentler walk which we took on the way down avoiding the steep steps. For those unable to undertake the climb there is road access and a parking area at the top. You can also enjoy a cup of tea in the cafe here.
On the walk we saw an interesting site we have never encountered before. People have hammered coins into a fallen tree so producing a remarkable piece of artwork. We were visiting with our friends from Australia, so if you look closely you may see a couple of Australian coins.
Peregrine Falcons, deer and wild boar
The forest is home to a wide variety of wildlife. From the top of Symonds Yat Rock you may be lucky enough to see a peregrine falcon as it swoops down from the cliffs looking for prey. More common are the goshawks who also make their homes in the rocky surrounds. Deer, though shy of humans, are plentiful in the forest. We were lucky enough to see a foal dancing in and out of the trees below on our most recent visit to Yat Rock. On a previous visit we even saw some of the forest’s wild boar. Farm pigs released into the forest have bred and are now happily living there as wild boar. There are not many areas in Britain where wild boar live but the surrounds of Symonds Yat is one of them.
Arguably, the most majestic animal in the area is the salmon. Yearly, salmon swim up the river to their breeding grounds. There are some wonderful pictures of caught salmon in the local pubs. If you are very lucky, River Wye salmon may be on the menu in one of them!
Canoe trips
If you don’t want to walk along the river you could always go by canoe. There are lots of options for you to do this, from a half day trip to a few days, you can choose whichever suits you best. You’ll get a unique view along the way and can stop off wherever you want. There are a number of companies offering canoeing activities catering for individuals, families and groups.
Canoes for hirePeople enjoying paddle boarding and canoeing
Getting Around Symonds Yat
Though the area is very small, travelling around it by car can take a long time as there are no road bridges across the river. The local roads are also narrow and single lane in places. This means there can be considerable congestion in the busy summer months and at Bank Holidays. Be aware!
Parking
The largest car park is at Yat Rock where there is also a cafe and toilet facilities. You may also find parking at the riverside, but it may be busier, particularly at Symonds Yat East which is the more popular of the two Symonds Yats. Parking is also available at the Paddocks Hotel, Symonds Yat West. Some of the canoe activities start from here.
History of the area
The river now only lazily meanders through the forest but it was once at the head of a great glacial, ice age movement which created the magnificent gorge which is Symonds Yat today. Beneath the surface, those same historic events were creating a unique geological foundation for the area, rich in coal, iron ore and limestone. An excellent account of how the special geology of the area gave birth to modern Symonds Yat can be found at this link: https://www.geoexpro.com/articles/2014/09/the-forest-of-dean-scowles-sheep-ancient-oaks
Because of its rich mineral deposits, Symonds Yat has been a mining area since ancient times. In the Middle-Ages, local miners gained special Royal privileges and the rights of “Free Miners” are held by families to this day. The Industrial Revolution saw a massive expansion of coal mining and iron production. Valuable limestone deposits were also mined and the remains of a limestone kiln can be seen on the banks of the river at Symonds Yat West. There is a record of a coal mine in Symonds Yat, but I have not been able to find its location. However, evidence of the forest’s numerous coal mines can be found all around the area. The 20th century saw a decline in mining and iron production and tourism gradually became the main industry of the area. If you wish to learn more of the industrial heritage of the area, then I’d recommend a visit to the nearby Dean Heritage Centre which is trying to keep that heritage alive. Details are at this link: https://www.deanheritagecentre.com/
Running in Symonds Yat
Although people think of Symonds Yat as a great place for walking, it is also a great place for running. There is a path along the riverbank from Symonds Yat which goes all the way to Monmouth. It’s about 5 miles in length. You can use a visit here to do some great traffic-free training on this path and at the same time enjoy the stunning scenery.
If you are here for the weekend then I do recommend you pop down the few miles to Coleford for the local Saturday morning parkrun. Click here to read our blog on the Forest of Dean Parkrun
We would love to hear your thoughts in the comments section below. Please share with anyone you think may be interested. See you again soon!
Barra is one of the small islands at the southern end of the Outer Hebrides archipelago. There are two ways to travel to Barra: flying or by ferry. Those who choose to fly will experience the thrill of landing at Barra’s famous airport with its spectacular beach landing strip. Not being so adventurous, we decided to relax on the 6 hour ferry crossing from Oban on the mainland of Scotland. The journey was a bit slower than normal as the regular ferry had been towed into dry dock for repairs, so our ferry was the slower replacement. It was a lovely journey and we met many interesting fellow travellers who we shared stories with. Quite a lot of these travellers were European cyclists who planned to cycle the 185 mile Hebridean Way. This cycle route starts in the nearby island of Vatersay and runs all the way up to the Butt of Lewis. Our own travel route followed much of the Hebridean Way, but we, of course, weren’t pedalling all the way!
Cyclists or general traveller, everyone aboard the ferry seemed armed with a camera and in the hunt to take a photograph of a passing seal, or dolphin. Top prize was to snap one of large basking sharks that lounged around the local waters. We never saw any wildlife but a German visitor managed to take a picture of a solitary shark who quietly glided past the ferry. The seas around the Hebrides are rich in marine life and it is one of the pleasures of travelling by ferry that one has the chance to see some nature’s most wonderful creatures.
We arrived at about 8.30 pm, in the small port town of Castlebay. Being so small, it didn’t take long to walk around the town. The Community Hall/shop is the nerve centre of the town, if not the island. Managed by local volunteers and situated at the top of the harbour, friendly staff provide tea, simple snacks and give information to newly arrived visitors. It was here that we learnt that it is not only the buses that do operate on Sundays, but most other services stop as well. For people used to a 24/7 lifestyle this is quite a shock. Here though, we learnt the great secret of the Hebrides: the Co-op does not shut on Sunday! Needless to say, the Co-op is extremely busy on the Sabbath.
Castlebay is dominated by the towering presence of its Catholic church, Our Lady Star of the Sea. Barra, like its island neighbour Vatersay, is proud of its Catholic tradition and islanders are equally proud of their church only built in the 1890’s. The church is worth a visit as is the statue of the Madonna and Child which has stood on the hillside since 1954. Though we visited the church we were not able to visit the statue: we couldn’t even see the statue as it was shrouded in mist for our visit. A must for next time.
There are two bars in Castlebay and so two bars from which to choose your evening’s entertainment. We were delighted to find a great Ceilidh band playing in the Castlebay Hotel’s public bar. There were a number of tourists in the bar, but locals were there too, all enjoying the music and singing along.
We stayed in a delightful B&B in Castlebay, only a few minutes walk from the ferry terminal. During this part of our holiday we were using public transport. Our first full day was a Sunday so there were no buses running, Being only 14 miles in circumference, you can walk to most places in Barra so transport isn’t a necessity. In wet weather though, it nice to escape the elements. In the morning we walked along the quiet coastal road to the beautiful beach of Tangasdale. Tangasdale beach has brilliant white sand which is washed by a beautiful blue sea. It is one of those beaches which is actually better than the brochure photo. Close by the beach is the Barra Hotel which is open to the general public. We were greeted by friendly staff and enjoyed the hotel’s great views with our post walk refreshments.
Tangasdale beach
We only had one full day to spend on the island, so we had to make the most of it. As we could see Kisimul Castle from our accommodation and had passed very close to it on the ferry, we decided not to visit it. Had we had more time we would have made the short boat trip to the castle. Instead, in the afternoon we did another walk around Castlebay. We don’t play golf, but if you do, you may like to play a round of golf on the most westerly golf course in the United Kingdom in stunning scenery. Some other popular activities on the island include kayaking, sailing and fishing. Certainly enough activities to keep you occupied whilst on holiday.
Kisimul Castle
On Sunday evening we found out that there was a family Ceildhi in the community centre. It was packed full of people from all over the island along with outside visitors. In the pub there was some impromptu entertainment from a member of the Vatersay Boys band. He’s a local musician (Vatersay is joined to Barra by a causeway) and is sometimes to be found in the pub entertaining all and sundry with his accordian. The locals in Barra know how to entertain themselves!
On Monday, we left on our bus trip to the other side of the island to catch our next ferry to the island of Eriskay. It was raining and very windy, but luckily the ferry was still running.
Beware: sometimes ferries have to be cancelled due to strong winds. Travellers should keep a check on weather reports and the Calmac Ferries website to ensure sailings are on schedule. A sudden storm can disrupt the best planned travel arrangements. We would strongly recommend any traveller going by campervan, car or even with a bicycle, to reserve their crossing booking well in advance of their planned trip. In the summer months the ferries can be full and so some visitors are disappointed by not being able to travel due to lack of available space.
Whisky Galore
The 1949 Ealing comedy about the SS. Politician which ran aground on rocks near the island of Eriskay, was actually filmed in Barra, not Eriskay. Keen observers will spot Kisimul Castle in many of the shots! The ship was laden with whisky and locals managed to help themselves to crates of their favourite drink before the ship sank. We watched the 1949 black and white classic before we started our journey and it is still a great movie despite its age, better, in our opinion, than the 2017 remake. We bumped into a local man on our walk who told us that his mother was in the original film. Look out for our next blog on Eriskay for more information!
History of Barra
Barra has a long a complex history which saw Nordic, Irish and Scottish influences at various times dominating the culture and politics of the island.
Up to the year 1266 the island was still a part of the Kingdom of Norway and in 1427 it was incorporated into the lands of the Lords of the Isles. Barra kept its Catholic tradition during the Reformation in contrast to the more northerly Hebridean islands which adopted the Presbyterian version of Protestantism.
The island’s population suffered greatly in the 19th century with first the potato famine of 1845-46 and then the “Clearances” which saw crofters forced off their ancient lands to make way for sheep farming. The decline in the Herring fishing industry after the Great War ruined the local economy. Many islanders emigrated so de-population became a tragic feature of the island up to the 1960s. In recent years the island’s economy has improved and the island’s population has started to grow again. Barra now accepts immigrants from around the world, even from far off England! The new arrivals have helped form a rich blend of diverse traditions and so helped to create the unique identity which is Barra today.
The naming of the island of Barra is a matter of historical debate. The Scottish tradition is that the island was named after a Scottish monk called St. Barr, who brought Christianity to the island in 620 AD. The Irish tradition is that St. Barr was actually an Irish monk and it is more correct to call him St. Finbarr. The Irish narrative is that St. Finbarr settled in the Cork area of southern Ireland and the Irish now regard him as the patron saint of Cork. St. Barr or St. Finbarr, you, as the reader, must make your own choice.
If you would like to read further about Barra’s fascinating history then an excellent short account can be read at the link below.
If you are used to running over hills, then Barra is the place for you. The roads are quiet, but there are not many pavements across the island to run on as you can see in the photos below.
There is a scenic half marathon each June called the Barrathon. It’s extremely popular and sells out within minutes of going on sale, so you must be quick if you want to enter. Click here for more details https://www.barrathon.org.uk/ The site includes a time lapse video so you can view the whole course.
Look out for our next blog when we explore Eriskay and some of the other islands.
We would love to hear your thoughts in the comments section below. Please share with anyone you think may be interested. See you again soon!
Our journey to Oban on the west coast of Scotland began with a 3 hour scenic train journey from Glasgow. The journey is ranked amongst the top train journeys in the world and it didn’t disappoint. After leaving urban Glasgow the journey follows the wonderful river Clyde as it meanders through the glens on its slow voyage down to the coast. We felt like we were on holiday right from the start. We’d bought advance tickets for only £10.50 each, so this was definitely a bargain buy. Another bonus was the amazing things you can learn on journeys like this by talking to your fellow passengers. We learned about the art of sailing from two delightful people who happened to be sitting next to us. Oban is now a centre for yachting holidays and our two companions were going on sailing trips from Oban. Here are a few photos from our train journey.
We stayed in a small B&B a short walk from the town centre and train station. A great location and full Scottish breakfast.
If you still feel the need to eat later in the day after your breakfast then there are lots of places where you can eat. One of the most popular spots was the Oban Fish and Chip Shop – claimed as one of the best chip shops in Scotland according to The Scotsman newspaper. We thought it a little pricey and crowded so we ended ended up eating our fish and chips in the excellent Wetherspoons situated by the harbour. Great value, quick service and lovely views.
Another popular place to visit is Oban distillery in the heart of Oban. A great place to visit if you have a rainy day, or if you would like to try a wee dram or two!
McCaig’s Tower was one of the sites we wanted to see. This is a circular monument built in the 19th century by a local dignitary. It’s a steep walk up the hill from the town centre to see the structure which from a distance resembles the Colosseum of Rome. It gives you a great view of the harbour and bay. Unfortunately for us it was raining when we went up there but it was still worth it for the panoramic views it gave. It is accessible by car for those who don’t wish to walk and there is car parking nearby. For the more energetic, it’s well worth the effort walking up the hill, even if it’s raining!
Oban harbourside
The harbour is an ideal place to watch the ferries coming and going and to eat some of the freshly caught seafood. The harbour’s fame for good seafood now attracts many Chinese visitors so do not be surprised if you hear more Mandarin being spoken than English as you eat your meal!
As we left Oban for our onward journey to the Outer Hebrides we saw a young piper on the harbourside. Visitors and locals alike enjoyed listening to the young man who proudly played his pipes and who we thought, was very good. It was certainly unexpected entertainment for the many travellers waiting at the ferry terminal. The terminal is the onward transit point to many of Scottish islands. It is here that we later boarded the ferry to the first stop on our Hebridian adventure, the small, but lovely Island of Barra.
History of Oban
Oban began life as a small fishing port on the West coast of Scotland. It only started to grow with the establishment of a distillery in 1794. The railway which connected Oban with the hinterland arrived a century later in 1880 so the town experienced little of the rapid Victorian urban growth that some Scottish towns experienced.
Oban was an important military base in the Second World War when it was used as a centre for anti-submarine warfare. Since the 1950s, tourism has been the dominant industry in the town and Oban now acts as the ferry port for both the Inner and Outer Hebridean islands.
Despite being only a small town, Oban has a number of impressive churches with the Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Columba being particularly impressive. If St. Columba isn’t to your liking then you can visit one of the many other denomination churches. In Oban you are spoilt for choice!
Scotland has many war memorials and Oban’s memorial is particularly emotive and worth viewing. Situated at the side of the road going out towards Ganavan, the memorial is a statue depicting two soldiers carrying their wounded comrade. The statue has a silent dignity that expresses so much about human nature. Personally, I rank the Oban memorial as one of the most memorable war memorials I have visited. I recommend it for a few minutes of contemplative respect.
Running in Oban
The free local Saturday parkrun attracts park run tourists from all over the UK and beyond. In the Summer months there could be more tourists running the race than locals! The race starts by a local caravan site near Ganavan Sands, hence the parkrun is called the Ganavan Sands Park Run. With 275ft of climbs the run is ranked as one of the toughest 40 park runs in the UK so do not expect a PB. The start is in a wonderful setting, by the sea which some runners go into for a post run cool down and swim! All visitors are treated with wonderful Scottish hospitality which helps to make Oban’s parkrun one of the top rated amongst park run enthusiasts.
When you go to Oban you should make a special effort to do the parkrun. You’ll enjoy it.
We only had a short stay in picturesque Oban before we continued our journey to the Western Isles. We wished we had longer and it’s on our list of places to visit again.
If you love family friendly festivals, and are on a budget, then come to Coventry! Feeder will headline the festival in 2019 and crowds of over 40,000 are expected on the Saturday alone. There are many other bands playing during the festival so you can experience different styles of music during the three days of the event. Families with children can enjoy a funfair and lots of other activities dotted around the site. The Godiva Festival is a festival that caters for everyone and we hope you enjoy your visit.
Godiva Festival
2019 headliners are: Levellers on Friday, Feeder on Saturday and Busted on Sunday.
Levellers
Feeder
Busted
The Godiva festival has taken place every year for over 20 years. The location is Coventry’s War Memorial Park, just outside the centre of Coventry, on the Kenilworth Road. This year’s event is happening from 5-7 July 2019.
War Memorial Park, Coventry
For the first time this year there are charges, but it is only £2 per person, per day – it must be the cheapest festival tickets in the UK? Tickets can be bought at the gate, but to ensure you get in it’s probably best to buy in advance online. Car park charges on-site are £10 per day, however, expect to queue. It might be easier to park in one of the city centre’s many car parks where parking is easier and fees are less. It’s a pleasant 1 km stroll to the park from the city centre. If you come by train then it’s an even shorter stroll to the park. There is no camping available. Tickets available from this site: https://godivatickets.co.uk/
History of Godiva
If you’ve read the “About Us” section on our site you will see that we’ve called our blog “Godiva Travellers”. Lady Godiva is Coventry’s symbol and it why so many local events, such as the Godiva Festival, are named in her honour.
Lady Godiva and her husband Earl Leofric are real historical figures from pre-Norman England of 1030-1060s. Earl of Mercia Leofric was one of the most powerful nobles in the country. The legend says that during a banquet feast Lady Godiva pleaded with her husband to reduce the heavy taxation on the people of Coventry. Maybe having had too much wine, Leofric joked that he would reduce Coventry’s taxes but only if Godiva agreed to ride naked, on horseback, through the city’s streets.
To Leofric’s astonishment, this is what Godiva did. Out of respect, the townsfolk closed the shutters on their windows so no one would see Godiva as she rode by. Only Peeping Tom opened his shutters to gaze on the naked Lady Godiva and for this, God is said to have blinded him. Leofric kept his promise and reduced the town’s taxes.
Leofric’s family lost power after the Norman conquest of 1066. There is another legend that says Lady Godiva and Earl Leofric were the parents of Hereward the Wake, the leader of the last English resistance to the Normans. The historical evidence for this legend has not been verified. It is a good story though so we believe it!
If you go into the city centre you will see a statue of Lady Godiva and the Peeping Tom Clock.
Lady Godiva Statue
Peeping Tom clock
Running at the War Memorial Park
This is the place where the Coventry Parkrun takes place every Saturday at 9.00 am. It’s a free 5k run around the park. It’s one of the largest parkruns in the UK attracting hundreds of runners of all abilities every week.
There is no parkrun while the festival takes place, but it is ran on all the other Saturdays in the year (weather permitting).
Martin became the runner to run the 1 millionth kilometre at the Coventry parkrun in June 2019!
We would love to hear your thoughts in the comments section below. Please share with anyone you think may be interested. See you again soon!
The beautiful Italian island of Ischia is situated a few kilometres off the mainland in the gulf of Naples. Though less well known than its smaller neighbour, the Isle of Capri, the island has lots to offer as a holiday destination. Ischia is a popular destination with both Italians from the nearby Neapolitan area and Italians from the north of Italy who enjoy both its beauty and its warm climate. The Germans are the most numerous non-Italian visitors, though a sprinkling of American and British accents can be heard. I learned to say: “Non sono Tedesca” when we were there. It means: “I’m not German”, in Italian. It was quite amusing being mistaken for being German so often, but there were no language difficulties. I can speak basic Italian but I found most Ischian people could speak much better English than I could speak Italian!
Travelling to Ischia
We had wanted to visit Ischia for many years but all the package holidays seemed very expensive. In the end, we decided to arrange the trip ourselves. Luckily, we are just a fifteen minute drive or a fifteen minute train journey from Birmingham airport. We are so lucky to have a major airport hub so close to our home, so naturally, our journey started from there.
Ischia is both too small, and too mountainous to have its own airport. You first must fly to Naples and make your way to Ischia from there. Taking the Alibus from Naples airport to the ferry port sounds easy, doesn’t it? In fact, it was the most difficult part of the whole trip! Getting the Alibus was no problem, but when we arrived at the ferry port there were few signs telling you exactly where to go. We later learnt that there are two ports in Naples: some travellers go to the wrong one.
We inevitably got lost and spent over half an hour lugging our suitcases around the port area in our search for the Ischia ferry. At one point we found ourselves in a swanky new shopping complex. We had thought it was the ferry booking area, but later discovered it was the purpose built shopping destination for the large cruise liners that call into Naples. Luckily, my basic Italian helped in obtaining proper directions from the shopping centre to the ferry booking terminal.
View from Naples
On the ferry
Entering Ischia
Entering Ischia
We did eventually get there and we did take some great photos on our one and a half hour sail to Ischia. All the walking was worth it.
Where we stayed
A great money saving idea we had was to convert our Tesco clubcard vouchers into Hotels.com vouchers and then use them for our accommodation. This dramatically reduced the cost of our holiday. There are many, many hotels to choose from all over the island catering for all budgets.
Friends of ours stayed in Ischia last year and they recommended the hotel that they stayed in, so we decided to do the same. Hotel Vittoria is a family owned hotel and is situated in the main town of Ischia, not far from the port so we could walk there after leaving the ferry. It’s a 3 star hotel with an outside swimming pool and also a lovely warm thermal pool. The garden is lovely too with beautiful plants and lemon trees. We stayed on a B&B basis. The breakfast is the usual continental buffet style with the addition of delicious home-made cakes every day! The location was good, easy to get to the port and bus station for any travel. We loved having free wi-fi in the room, but did miss not being able to make our own tea or coffee as you can do in UK hotels.
Pool and lemon trees
Thermal pool
Hotel garden
Travelling around the island
We thought we were visiting a quiet, unspoilt island, but we were wrong. It’s incredibly busy on the roads, even in the off peak times. You can hire cars and scooters, but we thought it best to stick with the bus. Travelling on the Ischia buses is quite an experience. Martin was genuinely nervous and more than once closed his eyes as the bus careered around the narrow, busy roads and climbed up the steep hills. There aren’t many seats on the buses, so people end up standing, packed sardine-like, for their journey. I wished I had taken a photo of the large number of people on the bus, but it was so packed I couldn’t get my camera out of my bag!
There is only one main road around the island. The CD and the CS buses go clockwise and anti-clockwise around the 25 kilometre perimeter of the island using this road. Though incredibly cramped, the buses are frequent, running every fifteen minutes when we were there. If you think of the bus journey as a rollercoaster ride at the fair then it can be fun!
Mount Epomeo
One of the best things to do on the island is to climb up Mount Epomeo. We got the bus to Fontana (get off when you see the statue of Jesus) and followed the path to the top. It’s the highest point on the island and you get rewarded with fantastic views on your way up and spectacular views when you get to the top. Don’t forget to collect your free walking stick from the cafe on your way up – you’ll need it!
Statue of Jesus
Square in Fontana
Start of walk
Free walking stick at cafe
Parts of the route are very steep and not suited to anyone with mobility difficulties. We had great views on the walk. It was strange being at cloud level too! There is a cafe at the top so you can rest and enjoy the views. Maybe you could try their speciality – rabbit stew?
Near the cafe at the top
At the top!
Spectacular views at the top
Giardini La Mortella
The other must do whilst in Ischia is to visit the exotic gardens: Giardini La Mortella. We braved the packed bus journey to get to the gardens. Remember to ask the driver to tell you when to get off for the gardens. You may have to do this in Italian as we found not all the drivers spoke English. The bus stop is on a busy narrow road so take care when crossing the road. There is a small sign near the bus stop which directs you to the 500 metre walk to the gardens.
Bamboo garden
The gardens are spectacular. There are many levels with something new and interesting to see at every turn. If you love classical music then make sure you go there for one of the music evenings. What a fantastic place it is to hold an event. If you want a good cup of tea and cake then you can have them here. You can sit in gorgeous surroundings and have the chance to sample a great variety of teas. Funnily enough, we found lots of the visitors here were British – it must be true that the British love their gardens and afternoon tea!
Concert room
Tea room
Don’t miss the orchid house either. Here are a few of the close up shots we took at the gardens.
My favourite flower in the Orchid House
Food
If you love seafood then you’ll be in heaven in Ischia. Beautiful fresh fish is served in all the restaurants across the island.
However, if like us, you’re not too keen on fish, then your choices are more limited. We didn’t see any chicken dishes or even lasagne on any menu when we were there. We had veal one night and lots of pizza and pasta on other occasions. Being Italy, the ice cream was great and you can get it at stalls everywhere. The restaurants were quiet until about 8.30 pm when they got a bit busier. We were not there in the peak summer months, but looking at the number of restaurants available, then there must be crowds of visitors in the summer. We loved being able to eat outside with views of the sea.
History of Ischia
Ischia has a long and turbulent history but sadly, there are few memorials or plaques on the island to commemorate it. Like most of southern Italy, Ischia was first colonised by the Greeks before the Roman conquest around 320BC. About 200 metres of a Roman aqueduct remain in one of the of the small towns a few kilometres outside of Ischia. This remarkable piece of Roman engineering can be seen from the CS/CD bus if one takes it. I found no official information about the aqueduct in any of the tourist information packs we had. Quite sad I thought.
The collapse of the Roman Empire saw Ischia controlled by foreign powers for more than a thousand years. Barbarian Ostrogoths were followed by Muslim Saracens, Normans, Germans and French lords till finally the Spanish rulers of Aragon took control of the island in the mid-15th century. The Aragonese Castle on the outskirts of the town of Ischia pre-dates the Spanish conquest but the Spanish did build the causeway which connects the castle to the main island. The French arrived again in the mid-18th century with the British turning up in the Napoleonic Wars to oust them from the island. Sadly, a British naval bombardment in 1809 damaged much of the original Aragonese Castle. Besides the tour guide in the castle, we could find no information on the island detailing these historic British attacks.
The end of the Napoleonic wars in 1815 saw peace restored to the island though it took Italian unification in 1870 before Ischia became a part of a modern united Italy. Even now though, there is political friction between the north and south of Italy, a friction that can be traced back to when the Greeks colonised Ischia and the rest of southern Italy.
As in the UK, you will find a number of memorials dedicated to the victims of the World Wars. The memorial in the picturesque village of Fontana is unique in that it also commemorates the death of over 6000 Italian soldiers in the Battle of Adjua in 1896 in what is now modern Ethiopia, but what was then, Abyssinia. The battle ensured Abyssinian independence from Italy which had been attempting to build an African Empire. The battle, now called the Battle of Adwa by modern scholars, was one of the few occasions when an African army defeated a European force.
Forty years later in 1935, Mussolini invaded Abbysinia with aircraft and tanks and obtained his revenge for Adjua. Britain and France did nothing to stop the Italian invasion. It was the start of the failed Allied policy of Appeasement. Mussolini and Hitler believed the Allies would do nothing against their military aggression. A year later Hitler’s troops occupied the Rhineland and the rest, as they say, is history.
The small memorial in Fontana is of global historical significance yet even local Italians seem unaware of its presence. Such a shame.
War memorial in Fontana
Running in Ischia
Finding places to run in the main town of Ischia is difficult because the pavements are very narrow and dangerous becuase of the traffic congestion. Ischia town has two small parks, but in reality these are simply two areas of woodlands with rough paths going through them. I did some running there, but it wasn’t enjoyable and I did suffer from a number of mosquito bites. I was told that In the height of summer the mosquitoes are really quite bad in the woods. In the town of Forio there is a small traffic-free promenade which you can run on, but if you are not staying in Forio it would be difficult to get to.
To be honest, Ischia is not for road runners. Fell runners, on the other hand, might enjoy running up and down the mountains. It wasn’t for me though. Every good running programme includes a rest period. Regard your Ischia holiday as a well earned rest period from running – it will do you good! If you’re anything like us, you will get enough exercise walking around the town and various sites.
We would love to hear your thoughts in the comments section below. Please follow and share with anyone you think may be interested. See you again soon!
Godiva Travellers 