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Isle of Skye: The Island you must visit, the Island you will not forget

21st Oct 20194th Oct 2020Posted in History, running, Scotland, travel, UKTagged Calmac, Eilean Ban, Eilean Donan, Flora Macdonald, Gavin Maxwell, Iolaire, Isle of Skye, Isle of Skye Pipe Band, James Bond, Kilt Rock, Neist Point, Old Man of Storr, Portree, Skye and Lochalsh RC, Skye half marathon, Skye road bridge, The World is Not Enough, Three Chimneys, Uig4 Comments

You will not forget your visit to the Isle of Skye. The superlatives, the adjectives, all the flowing words of praise that have been written about the island, are correct. If anything, they do not do it justice. It really is an island travellers should visit. Skye really is something special.

We took the Calmac ferry from Tarbert on the Isle of Harris to dock in Uig, the small port which resides in a sheltered bay on the north-west coast of Skye. It was a lovely sea crossing which had the added bonus of giving us superb views of the other islands that lie off the Scottish mainland. Of course, we think the best way to see Skye, is to go over the sea to it!

Portree is a small, but busy little town situated halfway along the eastern coastline of the island. Portree’s central location makes it a great centre to tour the island from. We were happy to stay in lovely B&B which had the option of delicious pancakes or a full Scottish breakfast. After 2 weeks of touring the Western Isles and having a full Scottish breakfast every day the pancakes were a real treat as were the fresh home-made scones baked daily. We can highly recommend a stay at Gleann an Ronnaich

Skye is a deceptively large island. It’s over 100 kilometres in length with a land area greater than 1,500 square kilometres. Even from Portree it may take over an hour and a half to drive to some of the popular tourist sites on the far north and south of the island. You have to spend at least a few days on Skye to appreciate all that the island can offer.

We enjoyed Portree itself. There is a scenic circular walk that starts by the harbour in the centre of the town. It provides great coastal views all the way across the sea to the nearby island of Raasay. The walk took us about 90 minutes and at its end we were ready for a cup of coffee and a cake. Portree has lots of bars and cafes to choose from.

Signpost on Portree walk — *Some views on the walk around Portree*

View on Portree walk — *Some views on the walk around Portree*

Skye can get very busy during the peak summer months though we personally had no difficulties in finding a table when we wanted to eat and we were there in July. However, if you want to eat somewhere extra special and would like some fine dining in places like the Three Chimneys in Colbost, then you must book in advance, even outside of the summer months.

Peak congestion is when a stream of coaches disembark their passengers in the town all at the same time. Then, Portree can seem very busy indeed! Again, though some restaurants required pre-booking for an evening meal, we had no problem finding a free table when we ate out. We tend to eat our evening meal between 5-6 pm. Had we eaten later, finding a table may have been more problematic. Eating early has the additional advantage that you may finish your meal just in time to see and hear the Isle of Skye Pipe Band which regularly parades through the town centre. We enjoyed a rousing performance from the band with the Pipe major being particularly impressive marching up and down in full Highland regalia. The Band’s parades in the town are advertised locally and we would strongly recommend you see the Band if you are in Portree.

Isle of Skye Pipe Band performing in Portree

Skye is one of those rare holiday destinations where the reality of being there is better than what brochures advertise. From the Old Man of Storr to the Neist Point Lighthouse, none of the island’s fabled attractions disappoint. We hired a car in Skye and simply travelling across the island was a wonderful experience with breathtaking views around every corner. Our journey times were much longer than planned because we kept stopping to take photos of the wonderful landscapes we kept on meeting. Skye really is a beautiful island. This is our favourite photograph of our stay, the view just stopped us in our tracks!

There is a caveat to touring Scotland’s most famous island. The whole world has now heard of Skye’s natural beauty and and at times it may seem the whole world is queuing up to see it. The traditional tourists from North America and England are now accompanied by tourists from Europe, China and South America. There can be traffic congestion near the most popular spots and you may find yourself amongst a small crowd of people when trying to get that perfect photo. Skye is still worth visiting despite the increased number of visitors. And to put Skye in perspective, it is much less crowded than Devon, Cornwall or the Lake District during the peak holiday season. We would recommend visiting the most popular sites early in the morning or late evening when day-trippers and coach parties are not there. Take advantage of the long daylight hours that are past 11.00 pm in the summer months. Travelling around Skye in the early evening is much quieter than during the day. It is the time when the local sheep population take over the roads and we got some great pictures of sheep on our way back after an evening sunset. The sheep weren’t bothered by the crowds!

Here are a few samples of the beautiful places we saw in Skye, There were so many places we were not able to see, we will have to visit Skye again.

Flora MacDonald and Skye

Skye has had a long and often turbulent history. Its role in the 1745 Jacobite Rebellion has been immortalised in the song: Over the Sea to Skye. The song commemorates how Flora MacDonald helped the rebel leader Bonnie Prince Charlie escape chasing Hanoverian troops. The Prince had been hiding on the neighbouring Hebridean island of South Uist. Flora MacDonald disguised the Prince as her maid. She and the Prince first travelled to the Isle of Benbecula where they boarded a boat which, as the song says, went over the sea to Skye. From Skye, the Prince was taken on another short boat journey to Raasay, where he boarded a vessel which eventually took him to safety in France.

Flora MacDonald was imprisoned for over a year for her part in the Prince’s daring escape. The irony is that a number of Flora’s family were supporters of the Hanoverian cause! She and her family later emigrated to America where she became involved in that country’s rebellion against the British. Sadly, the family lost its lands in that rebellion and so she had to return to Skye. Her burial place at Kilmuir has a fitting memorial to this remarkable woman. It is well worth a visit.

Flora Macdonald graveyard plaque — *Flora MacDonald graveyard*

Flora Macdonald gravestone — *Flora MacDonald graveyard*

Over the Bridge to Skye

Built in 1995 the Skye road bridge has transformed the economy of Skye with day-trippers now visiting the island from as far away is Edinburgh. Prior to the bridge being built visitors would have to catch the ferry which made the short sea crossing from the mainland port at the Kyle of Lochalsh. Though only a few hundred metres in length, the bridge is a feat of engineering skill and well worth taking the time to explore.

The bridge spans the small island of Eilean Ban which is home to a lighthouse and a nature reserve run by Ring of Bright Water author, Gavin Maxwell. It is worth parking your car and walking across the bridge to see the lighthouse and the spectacular views the bridge provides. Tours are available around Eilean Ban’s nature reserve on request.

Eilean Donan Castle

About 2 miles along the road from the bridge is one of Scotland’s most impressive castles, Eileen Donan castle. The castle has a long history and it played a pivotal role in the 1719 rebellion when a garrison of Spanish troops defended the castle against British soldiers. If you are travelling by car to Skye then take the time to visit it. In recent years it has been used as a film location for lots of films including Highlander (1986), Loch Ness (1996) and James Bond – The World is Not Enough (1999)

The views looking out from the castle are pretty special too.

Isle of Skye Running

One of the best ways to see Skye is to take part in the island’s annual half-marathon race which is held in early June. Details can be found here: Skye half marathon

Though the island does not have a parkrun, it has an established athletics club and members meet in Portree on Wednesday evenings for a club run. Perhaps you could join them when you visit the island? Details of Skye running can be found on the club website: Skye and Lochalsh RC

We left our hire car at the Kyle of Lochalsh railway station as we said goodbye to Skye. There was a plaque here to commemorate the 1919 Iolaire disaster (see our blog on the Isle of lewis for more details). We then took another scenic train journey, this time to Inverness where our trip ended with a flight home. It was a fantastic trip all through the Outer Hebrides and Skye. It left us wanting to see and explore more Scottish islands. Keep a look-out on our blog for where our adventures will take us next.

We would love to hear your thoughts in the comments section below. Please follow and share with anyone you think may be interested. See you again soon!

Isle of Lewis: Standing Stones & Stunning Scenery

8th Oct 2019Posted in History, Outer Hebrides, Scotland, travel, UKTagged Blackhouse Village, Harris Distillery, Herring girls, Iolaire, Isle of Harris, Isle of Lewis, Lewis Chessmen, Lews Castle, Lord Leverhulme, Parkrun, Shawbost Norse Mill, Stornoway6 Comments

The Isle of Lewis is the northern part of the Hebridean island commonly referred to as Lewis and Harris. The reasons for the split between the Isles of Lewis and the Isles of Harris are now lost in history but may be due to rivalry within the dominant local clan, the Macleod clan. Even as recent as 1975, Lewis was a separate administrative region, a part of the mainland county of Ross and Cromarty. Harris was an administrative region of Inverness Shire. Now, both Harris and Lewis are a part of the Western Isles Council.

We took the short ferry crossing from Berneray and arrived at Tarbert on the Isle of Harris. Calmac Ferries have a great value passenger ticket called the Hopscotch 23. We used this ticket for all our ferry journeys between the islands and we would recommend it.

Harris and Lewis are connected by a short isthmus just north of Tarbert. The official boundary between the two isles is a few miles north of Tarbert and crosses the rugged terrain of Harris. There is a scenic walk that follows the boundary. We never did the walk but details can be found at this website for anyone who wishes to enjoy the challenge of doing it.
https://marccalhoun.blogspot.com/2018/03/lewisharris-border.html

Though only a small town of less than a thousand people, Tarbert boasts its own Harris Distillery, set in a modern building. The distillery has a wide selection of both whiskeys and gins to be sampled. It is definitely worth a visit. Tarbert also boast an impressive War Memorial which has pride of place in the centre of the town. Again, worth a visit.

Our time in Tarbert was too short. When our bus arrived we set off on the next part of our journey, across the island to arrive in Stornoway, on the north east side of Lewis. The scenery was quite brilliant and we took scores of pictures through the bus window as we travelled through Harris on our way up to Lewis. Some of the beaches we passed were just stunning. When we come again, we will have to spend more time in Harris.

Stornoway

Though Stornoway has a population of less than 10,000, it has a big town feel with plenty of shops, restaurants and pubs. The town is successful and has ambitious plans for the future. Tourists now come to visit the town from all over Britain and beyond. When a cruise ship pulls into the harbour, a thousand or more people can disembark crowding the shops in their quest for souvenirs. Tasty food treats can be found in Stornoway. You can buy Hebridean mustard, smoked fish from the Stornoway Smokehouse or try one of the many flavoured teas from the Hebridean tea store in the town centre. Non food gifts and treats can also be found. Looking through the shop windows may tempt you to buy some beautiful local pottery, paintings, wooden toys or Harris tweed. At weekends, visitors fly in from Glasgow and Edinburgh to enjoy a stay on yachts which are moored in the harbour. A new marina is being constructed to cater for this growing luxury market.

Yet despite this bustle, Stornoway is still a remarkably relaxed town which holds onto its traditions fiercely. In accordance with its strict Protestant outlook, Sunday in Stornoway remains the Sabbath day and many shops are closed as a mark of respect. Buses do not run on Sunday. Sunday in Stornoway is a day of quiet relaxation. It is a day to walk down to the harbour and watch the resident seals as they play in the water. It is the day to stroll through the manicured gardens of the splendid Lews castle. The castle is home to 6 of the famous Lewis Chessmen. The castle is worth a visit just to see these exquisitely crafted works of art.

Sunday is the day to contemplate the Iolaire memorial which now rests in the harbour shore. On 1 January 1919, the SS Iolaire hit rocks just a few hundred metres from the safety of Stornoway harbour. Two hundred and five servicemen were drowned on that cruel New Year day. They had survived the Great War only to have life taken from them when so close to home. The tragedy of that day is still remembered in Stornoway and a wooden outline of the ship has been constructed in the harbour as the new memorial. Every wooden post represents a life lost. At night the outline is lit-up. It is a poignant and dignified tribute to the servicemen that died that day so close to home. A stay in Stornoway is not complete without visiting it.

About a mile outside the town on the headland is a more traditional stone memorial to the SS Iolaire. Looking over the sea and the rocks where the disaster struck, this memorial is also worth a visit.

Herring Fishing and Stornoway

Herring fishing was the main industry of Stornoway up to the First World War. Fishing boats still operate out of the harbour but the modern industry is a shadow of its past when it was claimed you could run from one side of the harbour to the other going from fishing boat to fishing boat. Sadly, the Herring fishing industry collapsed in the post war depression. Throughout the town you can see statues which commemorate the Herring Girls who played a vital part in the industry, gutting and boxing the fish when they were landed. Local historian Donald Murray has written an excellent account of the Herring industry in his book: Herring Tales. If you want to understand the character of Stornoway you must understand the important role that Herring fishing played in developing that character. I’d recommend Murray’s book as a good read.

Lewis’s Bus Service, the Callanish Stones and other Attractions

Stornoway is a great base to discover the many attractions on the Isle of Lewis. Sunday apart, there are good, regular bus services to the major tourist destinations on the island. Travelling by bus is also a relaxed way to see the island, and a great way to meet local people. The bus service doubles up as a local courier service delivering and collecting parcels from outlying settlements. Travelling by bus makes you feel a part of the island community and we enjoyed it so much that we’d recommend leaving the car at home and going by bus.

We were blessed with dry, warm weather when we took the bus to the Callanish Stones. Perhaps not as famous as Stonehenge, there are three neolithic stone circles that can be visited in the Callanish area. Unlike Stonehenge, they are easily accessible and there are not hordes of visitors queuing up to see the Stones. There is a visitor centre which includes a shop and cafe with lots of information on the site. You can walk from one of the stone sites to another and there is no cost for visiting them. We found it so funny seeing cows grazing on the grass by the standing stones. Cows have been grazing here for the 5000 years since the stones were first erected. I hope they continue to do so for the next 5000 years.

The Blackhouse Village

Our second stop on the bus was to visit the Blackhouse Village. The Village is a cluster of restored crofts and they represent the type of crofts islanders lived in from the 17th century to the 1970’s. There is a small fee to enter the village which is manned by volunteers who explain how local people lived and worked in these crofts. I did enjoy the scent of peat burning on the range. Some of the crofts can now be rented out for short stay visits though I was told you may have to book long in advance to get a letting in the popular Summer months. The village has majestic views over the sea and the coast paths provide great walking trails nearby.

A visit to the Blackhouse Village is a great day out and we recommend it.

Shawbost Norse Mill and Kiln

Our third stop on the bus tour was to another historic site worth a visit: the Norse Mill and Kiln. This is the remains of a long past mill and kiln which is open to the public. The mill is accessible via a short, though occasionally boggy walk from the road. A notice board gives a short explanation of the history and how the mill and kiln operated. Though not the most spectacular of Lewis’s attractions, the mill is worth a visit, particularly if you have an interest in history.

Running in Stornoway and Lewis

The quiet roads of Lewis offer ample opportunity for training runs. We stayed in Stornoway and I enjoyed running out of the town towards the Iolaire Memorial. It was peaceful, safe running and a great way to see the coastal views.

The grounds of Lews Castle also offer great running routes and local runners can often be seen on the paths around the castle. At the time of writing there is no Parkrun in Stornoway. I was told by local runners that plans are being made to stage a parkrun in the grounds of Lews Castle. Watch this space …

Half-Marathon and 10K

The Stornoway Running and Athletics club organise a Half-Marathon and 10K race usually in the late Spring. Details can be found here: https://srac.org.uk/half/

History of the Isle of Lewis

The island has had a long tumultuous history which has seen Irish, Norse and Lowland Scottish families dominate the politics of the island. The island was a part of the kingdom of Norway until 1266 when it became the possession of the Scottish crown in Edinburgh. The clan MacLeod dominated local politics till the early years of the Stuarts when the MacKenzies clan took control of the island. In 1844 the MacKenzies sold the island to Sir James Matheson who had made his fortune trading in China. It was he who co-founded the Jardine-Matheson conglomerate.

Matheson’s ownership of the island is one of the most controversial periods of the island’s history. Many crofters were dispossessed of their lands to make way for sheep farming and hunting. Poverty and emigration gripped the island. There were land riots in the 1880s. Though conditions improved towards the end of the century the bitterness between the Mathesons and the islanders remained.

In 1918 the industrialist Lord Leverhulme bought the island with the intention of re-industrialising the Herring industry in the Stornoway area. A large part of the population did not trust Leverhulme or his plans for new industry. Land ownership rights again became a fractious political issue amongst islanders. Some returning servicemen from the Great War took matters into their own hands and organised “Land Raids”. Leverhulme saw his plans would not work and faced with failure he gave Stornoway back to its people in 1923. The Stornoway Trust now administers the town on behalf of its people. This political arrangement may be unique in the UK.

Lews Castle regularly has exhibitions on the Isle of Lewis and Stornoway’s fascinating history. You may be lucky and be able to visit such an exhibition whilst on your stay on the island.

We travelled back to Tarbert in Harris after our short stay in Lewis. We then caught the ferry on our Hopscotch 23 route over the sea to the Isle of Skye.

We would love to hear your thoughts in the comments section below. Please follow and share with anyone you think may be interested. See you again soon!

North Uist – the Land of Lochs and Machair

30th Sep 201929th Aug 2020Posted in Outer Hebrides, Scotland, travel, UKTagged Barpa Langais, Berneray, Machair, midges, North Uist, Outer Hebrides, RSPB Balranald, Western Isles, wild flowers6 Comments

North Uist is one of the main islands in the Outer Hebrides. The eastern and central part of the island has a flat, peatland landscape, interspersed by up to 800 fresh and salt water lochs. This makes it a paradise for anglers and bird watchers. The western coastal region is more fertile than the east and arable farming is a feature of the area. The rich fertile soil has also allowed a unique display of flora to thrive. Driving along the coast road visitors can see a beautiful carpet of flowers known as the machair which stretches for miles. The beauty of the machair is one of the Outer Hebrides best kept secrets.

Mochair, Hougharry, North Uist — Machair, Hougharry, North Uist

We visited North Uist whilst we were staying on the island of Benbecula. The islands of Eriskay, South Uist, Benbecula, North Uist and Berneray are now connected by causeways but prior to the causeways, individual islands could only reached by boat. Driving across the islands today is so easy but just thirty years ago, our journey could have taken up to a day. Despite the causeways, life on North Uist still moves at a slow pace and there is little of the congestion that is sometimes found on the more northern islands. Perhaps it is this peacefulness that makes North Uist so attractive to walkers.

RSPB Balranald nature reserve walk

One of the most scenic walks on North Uist is the walk around the Balranald RSPB nature reserve. Situated in the north west of the island, we would recommend a trip to the reserve to all visitors. We enjoyed a gentle 90 minutes stroll around the reserve when the machair was in full bloom. It was quite stunning. As we walked, we were entertained by birds singing their particular tunes, and though we could not identify them all, we definitely heard the distinctive cries of the Corncrake.

The reserve is bordered by some fantastic bays and beaches. The white sands literally dazzle the eyes with its brightness. We wore sunglasses to protect our eyes from the glare and it is easy to imagine you are walking on a beach on a South Pacific atoll and not on a beach on the North Uist island.

Barpa Langais – Burial Chamber

Though North Uist has only one major Neolithic site, the spectacular chambered cairn and stone circle at Barpa Langais are well worth a visit. The chamber is visible from the A867 road in the east of the island just north of Langass Lodge. We made the short boggy walk from the car park up the hill to the cairn. It is quite humbling when you realise that this monument was built by our ancestors, with no machinery to help them, over 5000 years ago. There is an explanatory notice board at the site which gives a history of the monument and its builders.

You can continue up the the Eavel hill to visit North Uist’s only stone circle and enjoy the view of the wetlands below. We decided to retrace our tracks down the hill to our car as we were short of time. Next time we visit North Uist, we will have to stay longer!

The Beautiful Isle of Berneray

Berneray is a small island now connected by a short causeway to the island of North Uist. Berneray is where travellers can catch the ferry to the Isle of Harris just a few miles across the sea. We were lucky enough to have some time to explore the island before we took the ferry to Harris. The machair and beaches of Berneray are perhaps the most spectacular of all the Western isles. Words can not really do the island justice. Please enjoy a few of the pictures we took whilst we were on a short walk near the ferry port.

Machair – A note of warning beware of midges here!

Beautiful beach in Berneray – no midges here!

We left our hire car in the car park at the Berneray ferry terminal. We never met a representative from the car hire company – no hard selling for extra insurance or more charges for unused petrol – what a welcome change this was from dealings with car hire companies we have had in the past. Some sheep came down to the ferry to wave us off as we set off on our short voyage to Harris. It was so funny looking at the sheep, as they looked at us, as our boat sailed away. It made us smile as we said goodbye to Berneray. Now onto Harris and the rest of our adventure.

We would love to hear your thoughts in the comments section below. Please follow and share with anyone you think may be interested. See you again soon!

Benbecula: The flatlands of the Western Isles

18th Sep 201918th Sep 2019Posted in History, Outer Hebrides, Scotland, travel, UKTagged Balivanich, Benbecula, Charlies Bistro, Cula Bay, Dark Island Hotel, Flora Macdonald, Heb 3, Loganair, Nunton Land Raids, Peat, Rueval, Western Isles half marathon2 Comments

After our short visit to Eriskay (see previous blog), we drove over the next causeway to South Uist. I loved the rocky landscape that greeted us here. We just had to stop and take some photos.

As it was raining and as the visibility was poor we decided to continue on to find our accommodation in Benbecula and not to stop along the way. This meant following the main road and travelling over more causeways. We stayed in a beautiful B&B on a croft. We were welcomed with tea and cake which was just what we needed after our journey.

The landscape of Benbecula was very different to the landscape we had encountered in the other islands of the Western Isles. It was flat and reminded us somewhat of East Anglia in England. On a clear day you can see for miles in every direction, though when we arrived, low clouds reduced visibility to about 50 metres!

South Uist is the birthplace of Flora Macdonald who famously helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape capture after the failed rebellion of 1745/6. We had planned a short stop at the Flora MacDonald memorial which was on the route to our B&B. However, visibility was so poor we missed the signs for the memorial and later almost missed the turn off for our accommodation!

Travelling in Benbecula

There is a small airport in Benbecula. Scotland’s airline, Loganair, operate flights to Stornoway, Inverness, Glasgow and Edinburgh. There’s a little cafe here that is popular with locals as well as travellers. The only other way to get to Benbecula is by road via South or North Uist. There is a bus service, but if you are used to the busy, frequent service of a big city, you’ll be disappointed. Buses do not operate on Sundays. Benebecula still respects Presbyterian traditional values. Keeping the Sabbath holy and bus free is one of them. It is worth knowing if you are here for a weekend and wish to use public transport. We were glad that we had chosen to a hire car for this part of our trip!

Walking in Benbecula

There are many scenic walks along the beautiful coastline around the island. We discovered a lovely beach with sand dunes and white sand: it was Cula Bay. The bay is popular with surfers and it was only a short distance from where we stayed. It was remarkable to see surfers braving the Atlantic waves so far north, but the Gulf Stream makes the sea temperature quite mild. For experienced surfers, the Atlantic breakers of Benbecula make the island’s surfing amongst the best in Britain, if not the world!

On a very windy day we decided to climb the Rueval, the highest point in the island. At 124m high, it rises from sea level to give extraordinary views up and down the Outer Hebrides. We drove to Market Stance and took the path to the summit. It is claimed, that the cave where Bonnie Prince Charlie is said to have hidden whilst waiting for Flora MacDonald to arrange his escape, is on this walk. We met a few walkers on the way including an 84 year old lady who did the walk every day. She was a hardy type, born and bred Benbecula, and no amount of wind or rain was going to stop her!

Peat is still gathered for fuel on the island. It was fascinating to see it cut up and drying out at the side of our path along the walk.

Eating Out

Benebecula was the quietest island of the islands we visited on our holiday. As such, there was only a limited choice of places where to eat. We stayed in the Balivanich area, near the airport. Here, there are two restaurants to choose from, The Stepping Stones and Charlie’s Bistro. A little further south was the Dark Island hotel where you could go for a meal or a drink in the bar. All three places were good and not too expensive but you may have to book a table in The Stepping Stones and Charlie’s Bistro in the busier summer months.

We didn’t find any pubs on the island, though we were told one bar opens up at weekends in the town of Balivanich. Lunch time you could try the airport cafe or the nearby riding school which provide teas, coffees and sandwiches at reasonable prices.

The Military Presence in Benbecula

The more observant traveller to Benbecula will soon become aware of the island’s military connections. The island is a key centre of the North Atlantic, NATO communication system. Though discreetly hidden away, the island is the home for military radar stations, NATO personnel from various countries often visit the island for combined operational exercises. So it is quite possible some of those Canadian, Dutch or Italian “tourists” you meet, are in reality military communication experts having a quiet break from an intense military operation!

History – Nunton Land Raids

The Highland Clearances were one of the saddest episodes of 18th and early 19th century Scottish history. Landlords removed crofting families from their estates to make way for more profitable sheep farming. Government legislation in the mid-19th century stopped the worst excesses of the Clearances but land ownership remained a bitterly contested subject into the 20th century. Some soldiers returning from the First World War took matters into their own hands and occupied crofts that they believed to be rightfully their property. Such actions were called “Land Raids” and one of the most famous land raids was the “Nunton Farm Land Raid” of 1923. There is a plaque on an old building near our B&B commemorating this event. Even today, the subject of crofting rights brings back bitter memories of past injustices to islanders.

Running in Benbecula

There is no parkrun in either South/North Uist or Benbecula as the islands have such small populations. On the positive side, the low population means that the quiet roads provide an excellent training ground. The flat terrain is an added bonus for those used to the strain of constantly running up hills!

There is an annual half marathon race in June and a 10K race in the Spring. Both races get booked up quickly so enter early if you are thinking of taking part. The half-marathon is one of the 5 Western Isles half-marathons. If you run 3 of these half-marathons you will qualify for the prestigious HEB3 award. What a fantastic way to spend a summer: running the Hebridean islands! Click here for more details.

We would love to hear your thoughts in the comments section below. Please share with anyone you think may be interested. See you again soon!

Eriskay and the missing 10 shilling notes

2nd Sep 2019Posted in Outer Hebrides, Scotland, travel, UKTagged Bonny Prince Charlie, Calmac, Eriskay, Outer Hebrides, SS Politician, Western Isles, Whisky Galore5 Comments

About 4 square miles in total, Eriskay is one of the smaller islands of the Outer Hebrides. Though the island has been connected to its larger neighbour South Uist by a causeway since 2001, the island still maintains its independent character. Our second ferry journey on the Calmac Hopscotch 23 route was a short 40 minute ferry voyage from Barra to Eriskay. It was another opportunity to meet and talk with fellow travellers and another opportunity to scan the seas for passing sharks and seals. Travelling on a Hebrides ferry is a real pleasure.

We decided to hire a car for this part of our travels through the Outer Hebrides. We picked up the hire car at the ferry port and arranged to leave it at the ferry port in Berneray a few days later. Our plan on arriving was to set off on a 1.5 mile circular walk which started at the ferry terminal. The walk would have taken us along Prince’s Beach where Bonny Prince Charlie landed in 1745 at the start of his forlorn adventure to regain the British throne for the Stuart family. The walk would have taken us past Eriskay’s remarkable Catholic church, built by local people using local materials towards the end of the 19th century. The church contains remains from both the first world and second world war within its structure. The altar sits on top of a lifeboat from the WW11 aircraft carrier, the HMS Hermes and the bell comes from the German battle cruiser, the Derfflinger which was scuttled in 1918.

Here is a link to further information about the church: St Michael’s Church

The route of our planned walk can be found in Paul and Helen Webster’s book: The Outer Hebrides: 40 Coast and Country Walks

Unfortunately, the weather turned shortly after we disembarked and it began to rain quite heavily. We sadly decided not to venture on our walk and instead headed for the comfort of the modern Politician pub. The pub is named in honour of a ship that was wrecked on local rocks. This shipwreck gave birth to the story for which the island is now most famous The following is a short account of that story.

The SS Politician floundered on rocks in the Sound of Eriskay whilst sailing to America from Liverpool during the wartime Britain of 1941. It was loaded with 264,000 bottles of Scotch whisky. Of course, the good folk of Eriskay were very happy to have crates of their favourite drink wash up on their shores. Unfortunately, the tax man was not so happy so the next few months saw a game of cat and mouse between Government officials and islanders who were intent on protecting their illegal liquid treasure. The 1949 film ‘Whisky Galore!” was based on this incident. However, the filming took place on the nearby island of Barra, not on Eriskay itself. Here is a link to our blog on the island of Barra: Barra-Southern-Gem

Perhaps of equal interest, but less well known, is that the SS Politician was also carrying 290,000 ten-shilling bank notes destined for the banks of Jamaica. These bank notes would be worth several million pounds in today’s valuation. Within a few months of the shipwreck, these notes began appearing in mainland British banks. Evidently, they did not all sink with the ship! The question is: what happened to all those ten-shilling notes?

We may never know: perhaps they should make a film about this too?

In preparation for our trip we thought we should watch the film. If you are in the UK you may still be able to watch the black and white 1949 film Whisky Galore! on BBC iplayer. It made us chuckle and we would recommend you watch it.

There was a remake of the film in 2017 starring Eddie Izzard. We watched this too, but must admit to liking the black and white 1949 version best.

We had lunch in the Politician pub. The barman allowed us to hold some of the artifacts from the grounded ship. The locals had fun with us suggesting we hold the sword and gun to each other’s heads whilst holding the whisky!

We also made a visit to the local cemetery. Like so many Hebridean cemeteries, Eriskay’s cemetery contains the graves of sailors lost at sea during the world wars. Such graves are poignant reminders of how much we owe to the brave people of the past for the freedom we enjoy today. The graves are immaculately kept and such cemeteries are worth visiting for their manicured beauty alone. They also offer moments of tranquil meditation and reflection.

After our short tour of the island, we drove across the causeway to South Uist and the next stage in our journey. You can read about this in our next blog.

We would love to hear your thoughts in the comments section below. Please share with anyone you think may be interested. See you again soon!

Barra, the Southern Gem of the Western Isles

12th Aug 201929th Sep 2019Posted in History, Outer Hebrides, Scotland, travel, UKTagged Barra, Barrathon, Calmac, Castlebay, Ceilidh, Ealing Comedy, Hebridean Way, Kisimul Castle, Potato famine, Tangasdale, Vatersay Boys, Whisky Galore2 Comments

Barra is one of the small islands at the southern end of the Outer Hebrides archipelago. There are two ways to travel to Barra: flying or by ferry. Those who choose to fly will experience the thrill of landing at Barra’s famous airport with its spectacular beach landing strip. Not being so adventurous, we decided to relax on the 6 hour ferry crossing from Oban on the mainland of Scotland. The journey was a bit slower than normal as the regular ferry had been towed into dry dock for repairs, so our ferry was the slower replacement. It was a lovely journey and we met many interesting fellow travellers who we shared stories with. Quite a lot of these travellers were European cyclists who planned to cycle the 185 mile Hebridean Way. This cycle route starts in the nearby island of Vatersay and runs all the way up to the Butt of Lewis. Our own travel route followed much of the Hebridean Way, but we, of course, weren’t pedalling all the way!

Cyclists or general traveller, everyone aboard the ferry seemed armed with a camera and in the hunt to take a photograph of a passing seal, or dolphin. Top prize was to snap one of large basking sharks that lounged around the local waters. We never saw any wildlife but a German visitor managed to take a picture of a solitary shark who quietly glided past the ferry. The seas around the Hebrides are rich in marine life and it is one of the pleasures of travelling by ferry that one has the chance to see some nature’s most wonderful creatures.

We arrived at about 8.30 pm, in the small port town of Castlebay. Being so small, it didn’t take long to walk around the town. The Community Hall/shop is the nerve centre of the town, if not the island. Managed by local volunteers and situated at the top of the harbour, friendly staff provide tea, simple snacks and give information to newly arrived visitors. It was here that we learnt that it is not only the buses that do operate on Sundays, but most other services stop as well. For people used to a 24/7 lifestyle this is quite a shock. Here though, we learnt the great secret of the Hebrides: the Co-op does not shut on Sunday! Needless to say, the Co-op is extremely busy on the Sabbath.

Castlebay is dominated by the towering presence of its Catholic church, Our Lady Star of the Sea. Barra, like its island neighbour Vatersay, is proud of its Catholic tradition and islanders are equally proud of their church only built in the 1890’s. The church is worth a visit as is the statue of the Madonna and Child which has stood on the hillside since 1954. Though we visited the church we were not able to visit the statue: we couldn’t even see the statue as it was shrouded in mist for our visit. A must for next time.

There are two bars in Castlebay and so two bars from which to choose your evening’s entertainment. We were delighted to find a great Ceilidh band playing in the Castlebay Hotel’s public bar. There were a number of tourists in the bar, but locals were there too, all enjoying the music and singing along.

We stayed in a delightful B&B in Castlebay, only a few minutes walk from the ferry terminal. During this part of our holiday we were using public transport. Our first full day was a Sunday so there were no buses running, Being only 14 miles in circumference, you can walk to most places in Barra so transport isn’t a necessity. In wet weather though, it nice to escape the elements. In the morning we walked along the quiet coastal road to the beautiful beach of Tangasdale. Tangasdale beach has brilliant white sand which is washed by a beautiful blue sea. It is one of those beaches which is actually better than the brochure photo. Close by the beach is the Barra Hotel which is open to the general public. We were greeted by friendly staff and enjoyed the hotel’s great views with our post walk refreshments.

We only had one full day to spend on the island, so we had to make the most of it. As we could see Kisimul Castle from our accommodation and had passed very close to it on the ferry, we decided not to visit it. Had we had more time we would have made the short boat trip to the castle. Instead, in the afternoon we did another walk around Castlebay. We don’t play golf, but if you do, you may like to play a round of golf on the most westerly golf course in the United Kingdom in stunning scenery. Some other popular activities on the island include kayaking, sailing and fishing. Certainly enough activities to keep you occupied whilst on holiday.

On Sunday evening we found out that there was a family Ceildhi in the community centre. It was packed full of people from all over the island along with outside visitors. In the pub there was some impromptu entertainment from a member of the Vatersay Boys band. He’s a local musician (Vatersay is joined to Barra by a causeway) and is sometimes to be found in the pub entertaining all and sundry with his accordian. The locals in Barra know how to entertain themselves!

On Monday, we left on our bus trip to the other side of the island to catch our next ferry to the island of Eriskay. It was raining and very windy, but luckily the ferry was still running.

Beware: sometimes ferries have to be cancelled due to strong winds. Travellers should keep a check on weather reports and the Calmac Ferries website to ensure sailings are on schedule. A sudden storm can disrupt the best planned travel arrangements. We would strongly recommend any traveller going by campervan, car or even with a bicycle, to reserve their crossing booking well in advance of their planned trip. In the summer months the ferries can be full and so some visitors are disappointed by not being able to travel due to lack of available space.

Whisky Galore

The 1949 Ealing comedy about the SS. Politician which ran aground on rocks near the island of Eriskay, was actually filmed in Barra, not Eriskay. Keen observers will spot Kisimul Castle in many of the shots! The ship was laden with whisky and locals managed to help themselves to crates of their favourite drink before the ship sank. We watched the 1949 black and white classic before we started our journey and it is still a great movie despite its age, better, in our opinion, than the 2017 remake. We bumped into a local man on our walk who told us that his mother was in the original film. Look out for our next blog on Eriskay for more information!

History of Barra

Barra has a long a complex history which saw Nordic, Irish and Scottish influences at various times dominating the culture and politics of the island.

Up to the year 1266 the island was still a part of the Kingdom of Norway and in 1427 it was incorporated into the lands of the Lords of the Isles. Barra kept its Catholic tradition during the Reformation in contrast to the more northerly Hebridean islands which adopted the Presbyterian version of Protestantism.

The island’s population suffered greatly in the 19th century with first the potato famine of 1845-46 and then the “Clearances” which saw crofters forced off their ancient lands to make way for sheep farming. The decline in the Herring fishing industry after the Great War ruined the local economy. Many islanders emigrated so de-population became a tragic feature of the island up to the 1960s. In recent years the island’s economy has improved and the island’s population has started to grow again. Barra now accepts immigrants from around the world, even from far off England! The new arrivals have helped form a rich blend of diverse traditions and so helped to create the unique identity which is Barra today.

The naming of the island of Barra is a matter of historical debate. The Scottish tradition is that the island was named after a Scottish monk called St. Barr, who brought Christianity to the island in 620 AD. The Irish tradition is that St. Barr was actually an Irish monk and it is more correct to call him St. Finbarr. The Irish narrative is that St. Finbarr settled in the Cork area of southern Ireland and the Irish now regard him as the patron saint of Cork. St. Barr or St. Finbarr, you, as the reader, must make your own choice.

If you would like to read further about Barra’s fascinating history then an excellent short account can be read at the link below.

Reference: http://www.isleofbarra.com/cillebharra.htm

Running in Barra

If you are used to running over hills, then Barra is the place for you. The roads are quiet, but there are not many pavements across the island to run on as you can see in the photos below.

There is a scenic half marathon each June called the Barrathon. It’s extremely popular and sells out within minutes of going on sale, so you must be quick if you want to enter. Click here for more details https://www.barrathon.org.uk/ The site includes a time lapse video so you can view the whole course.

Look out for our next blog when we explore Eriskay and some of the other islands.

We would love to hear your thoughts in the comments section below. Please share with anyone you think may be interested. See you again soon!

Oban: Gateway to the Western Isles

5th Aug 201929th Aug 2020Posted in History, Outer Hebrides, Parkrun, running, Scotland, travel, UKTagged Bagpipes, Calmac, Catholic churches, ferry journey, Oban, Oban Distillery, Outer Hebrides, Parkrun, Piper, running, Scenic train journey, Scotland, Seafood, St Columba, Visit Scotland, War Memorial, Western Isles5 Comments

Our journey to Oban on the west coast of Scotland began with a 3 hour scenic train journey from Glasgow. The journey is ranked amongst the top train journeys in the world and it didn’t disappoint. After leaving urban Glasgow the journey follows the wonderful river Clyde as it meanders through the glens on its slow voyage down to the coast. We felt like we were on holiday right from the start. We’d bought advance tickets for only £10.50 each, so this was definitely a bargain buy. Another bonus was the amazing things you can learn on journeys like this by talking to your fellow passengers. We learned about the art of sailing from two delightful people who happened to be sitting next to us. Oban is now a centre for yachting holidays and our two companions were going on sailing trips from Oban. Here are a few photos from our train journey.

We stayed in a small B&B a short walk from the town centre and train station. A great location and full Scottish breakfast.

If you still feel the need to eat later in the day after your breakfast then there are lots of places where you can eat. One of the most popular spots was the Oban Fish and Chip Shop – claimed as one of the best chip shops in Scotland according to The Scotsman newspaper. We thought it a little pricey and crowded so we ended ended up eating our fish and chips in the excellent Wetherspoons situated by the harbour. Great value, quick service and lovely views.

Another popular place to visit is Oban distillery in the heart of Oban. A great place to visit if you have a rainy day, or if you would like to try a wee dram or two!

McCaig’s Tower was one of the sites we wanted to see. This is a circular monument built in the 19th century by a local dignitary. It’s a steep walk up the hill from the town centre to see the structure which from a distance resembles the Colosseum of Rome. It gives you a great view of the harbour and bay. Unfortunately for us it was raining when we went up there but it was still worth it for the panoramic views it gave. It is accessible by car for those who don’t wish to walk and there is car parking nearby. For the more energetic, it’s well worth the effort walking up the hill, even if it’s raining!

Oban harbourside

The harbour is an ideal place to watch the ferries coming and going and to eat some of the freshly caught seafood. The harbour’s fame for good seafood now attracts many Chinese visitors so do not be surprised if you hear more Mandarin being spoken than English as you eat your meal!

As we left Oban for our onward journey to the Outer Hebrides we saw a young piper on the harbourside. Visitors and locals alike enjoyed listening to the young man who proudly played his pipes and who we thought, was very good. It was certainly unexpected entertainment for the many travellers waiting at the ferry terminal. The terminal is the onward transit point to many of Scottish islands. It is here that we later boarded the ferry to the first stop on our Hebridian adventure, the small, but lovely Island of Barra.

History of Oban

Oban began life as a small fishing port on the West coast of Scotland. It only started to grow with the establishment of a distillery in 1794. The railway which connected Oban with the hinterland arrived a century later in 1880 so the town experienced little of the rapid Victorian urban growth that some Scottish towns experienced.

Oban was an important military base in the Second World War when it was used as a centre for anti-submarine warfare. Since the 1950s, tourism has been the dominant industry in the town and Oban now acts as the ferry port for both the Inner and Outer Hebridean islands.

Despite being only a small town, Oban has a number of impressive churches with the Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Columba being particularly impressive. If St. Columba isn’t to your liking then you can visit one of the many other denomination churches. In Oban you are spoilt for choice!

Scotland has many war memorials and Oban’s memorial is particularly emotive and worth viewing. Situated at the side of the road going out towards Ganavan, the memorial is a statue depicting two soldiers carrying their wounded comrade. The statue has a silent dignity that expresses so much about human nature. Personally, I rank the Oban memorial as one of the most memorable war memorials I have visited. I recommend it for a few minutes of contemplative respect.

Running in Oban

The free local Saturday parkrun attracts park run tourists from all over the UK and beyond. In the Summer months there could be more tourists running the race than locals! The race starts by a local caravan site near Ganavan Sands, hence the parkrun is called the Ganavan Sands Park Run. With 275ft of climbs the run is ranked as one of the toughest 40 park runs in the UK so do not expect a PB. The start is in a wonderful setting, by the sea which some runners go into for a post run cool down and swim! All visitors are treated with wonderful Scottish hospitality which helps to make Oban’s parkrun one of the top rated amongst park run enthusiasts.

When you go to Oban you should make a special effort to do the parkrun. You’ll enjoy it.

We only had a short stay in picturesque Oban before we continued our journey to the Western Isles. We wished we had longer and it’s on our list of places to visit again.

Planes, trains and automobiles (and ferries!)

17th Jul 201929th Sep 2019Posted in Scotland, travel, UKTagged Barra, Benbecula, Berneray, Calmac, Eriskay, Isle of Harris, Isle of Lewis, Isle of Skye, midges, North Uist, Oban, Outer Hebrides, Outlander, Parkrun, Scotland, south Uist2 Comments

Planning for our Outer Hebrides & Isle of Skye trip

Readers of the Rough Guide recently voted Scotland: ‘the most beautiful country in the world’, beating Canada to the number one slot. Well that is some accolade! We have visited Scotland a few times and have always enjoyed our visits. This year we thought we’d plan a special trip to the beautiful and remote islands of the Outer Hebrides. These islands are located on the north west of the Scottish mainland. We’ve been on many trips and holidays over the years, but none that have needed as much planning as this one!

Scotland has had a massive increase in tourists in recent years. One of the reasons for the increase in numbers is the phenomenal success of the romantic time-travel TV series, “Outlander”. The show is based on the adventures of an English nurse who travels back in time to the Highlands of the 1740’s and the Jacobite rebellion. The show has a huge following all over the world. Needless to say, many of the show’s devoted fans want to visit “Outlander” Scotland. Hence, the rise in tourism. Strangely though the show has a large global audience, it is less well known in the UK. Outlander is filmed in Scotland (even when they say they are in France or North Carolina!). We will not be visiting the film locations on this occasion – we’ll leave that for another trip!

Planes, trains and automobiles (and ferries!)

Although we live in the UK and could, in theory, drive all the way to Scotland, we prefer to fly there. It is more expensive but it does mean we do not have to endure a 8-10 hour car journey. Birmingham airport is close to us and flight costs are reasonable.

At first, we wanted to see if we could do the trip without any driving at all, so we started planning for that. Our initial idea was that we would fly to Glasgow and from there, take a flight to one of the islands of the Outer Hebrides. There are airports in Stornoway and Benbecula and the Isle of Barra. Barra has the most unique airport. Fancy landing here!

We then realised that if we did this we couldn’t visit Oban which is on the Scottish mainland. Martin had wanted to visit Oban so he could take part in its Saturday parkrun as it is quite famous in the running community. So, first change of plan. We now decided to go Oban before visiting the islands themselves. So what to do now? Fly to Glasgow and then we could either hire a car, or get a bus, or take the train to Oban. After some research and discovering that the train journey was really beautiful, we decided on that option. The train journey is advertised as one of the world’s best train journeys for stunning views.

Tip – if you plan on getting the train look for the much cheaper advance fares that are available 12 weeks before the journey begins. I set a reminder in my calendar to do this. Our train journeys have now been booked!

We’ve discovered that the buses are pretty good and link with the ferry timetimetables. Sadly, the buses don’t go to all the places we want to visit and they also don’t operate on Sundays. This means we will have to hire a car some of the time as there are no other options for travel. We could walk or hire bicycles but it would be very difficult carrying our suitcases!

Calmac ferries is the local ferry operator and it has lots of travel options. After much deliberation we have decided to go on the Hopscotch 23 route. This entails leaving from Oban on the ferry which takes 5 hours to the island of Barra. What a start! We then travel up through the Outer Hebrides. We will visit the following islands on our journey: Barra, Eriskay, South Uist, Benbecula, North Uist, Harris, Lewis. It’s then on to the Isle of Skye before going on another scenic train journey to Inverness. We will fly home from there. Phew – we’re going to be travelling a lot!

Resources used for planning:

Calmac ferries website – https://www.calmac.co.uk/
City Link bus timetables – https://www.citylink.co.uk/timetables.php
Historic Environment Scotland – https://www.historicenvironment.scot/
Scotrail – https://www.scotrail.co.uk/
Skyscanner – https://www.skyscanner.net/
Visit Outer Hebrides website – https://www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk/

A spreadsheet with dates, times, costs, timetables, hotels booked and deposits paid has been very useful. Some places we will be staying in wanted a deposit, some wanted full payment and some wanted nothing in advance. We will also need our cheque book as not everywhere accepts card payments. I’ve typed up our itinerary and saved it as a pdf document so that it’s easily at hand on my phone.

Weather

The weather can be unpredictable in Scotland, even in the summer. We will have to bring a mixture of summer clothing and clothes suitable for wet weather. I’ve bought a strong, wind-proof umbrella to take as well. Let’s hope it can do its job, if needed. You may also have heard about the midges in Scotland? They are tiny flies that bite, a bit like mosquitoes. In order to help with these we have got a supply of the Avon spray: Skin So Soft. Everybody swears by it its success against the little flying nasties. We’ll let you know after our trip if its worked. Just in case, we’ve also bought two midge nets. We really don’t want to have to use them, but it can’t hurt taking them along.

Our planes, trains and automobiles are now booked and we can’t wait to explore the beautiful islands. Look out for our future blogs to learn all about the places we visited.