North Uist – the Land of Lochs and Machair

North Uist

North Uist is one of the main islands in the Outer Hebrides.  The eastern and central part of the island has a flat, peatland landscape, interspersed by up to 800 fresh and salt water lochs.  This makes it a paradise for anglers and bird watchers. The western coastal region is more fertile than the east and arable farming is a feature of the area.  The rich fertile soil has also allowed a unique display of flora to thrive. Driving along the coast road visitors can see a beautiful carpet of flowers known as the machair which stretches for miles.  The beauty of the machair is one of the Outer Hebrides best kept secrets. 

Mochair, Hougharry, North Uist
Machair, Hougharry, North Uist

We visited North Uist whilst we were staying on the island of Benbecula. The islands of Eriskay, South Uist, Benbecula, North Uist and Berneray are now connected by causeways but prior to the causeways, individual islands could only reached by boat.  Driving across the islands today is so easy but just thirty years ago, our journey could have taken up to a day. Despite the causeways, life on North Uist still moves at a slow pace and there is little of the congestion that is sometimes found on the more northern islands.   Perhaps it is this peacefulness that makes North Uist so attractive to walkers.  

RSPB Balranald nature reserve walk

One of the most scenic walks on North Uist is the walk around the Balranald RSPB nature reserve.  Situated in the north west of the island, we would recommend a trip to the reserve to all visitors.  We enjoyed a gentle 90 minutes stroll around the reserve when the machair was in full bloom. It was quite stunning.  As we walked, we were entertained by birds singing their particular tunes, and though we could not identify them all, we definitely heard the distinctive cries of the Corncrake. 

The reserve is bordered by some fantastic bays and beaches.  The white sands literally dazzle the eyes with its brightness.  We wore sunglasses to protect our eyes from the glare and it is easy to imagine you are walking on a beach on a South Pacific atoll and not on a beach on the North Uist island.

Barpa Langais – Burial Chamber

Though North Uist has only one major Neolithic site, the spectacular chambered cairn and stone circle at Barpa Langais are well worth a visit.  The chamber is visible from the A867 road in the east of the island just north of Langass Lodge. We made the short boggy walk from the car park up the hill to the cairn.  It is quite humbling when you realise that this monument was built by our ancestors, with no machinery to help them, over 5000 years ago. There is an explanatory notice board at the site which gives a history of the monument and its builders.  

You can continue up the the Eavel hill to visit North Uist’s only stone circle and enjoy the view of the wetlands below.  We decided to retrace our tracks down the hill to our car as we were short of time. Next time we visit North Uist, we will have to stay longer!

The Beautiful Isle of Berneray

Berneray is a small island now connected by a short causeway to the island of North Uist.  Berneray is where travellers can catch the ferry to the Isle of Harris just a few miles across the sea.  We were lucky enough to have some time to explore the island before we took the ferry to Harris. The machair and beaches of Berneray are perhaps the most spectacular of all the Western isles.  Words can not really do the island justice. Please enjoy a few of the pictures we took whilst we were on a short walk near the ferry port.

Machair – A note of warning beware of midges here!

Beautiful beach in Berneray – no midges here!

Berneray beach

We  left our hire car in the car park at the Berneray ferry terminal. We never met a representative from the car hire company – no hard selling for extra insurance or more charges for unused petrol – what a welcome change this was from dealings with car hire companies we have had in the past.  Some sheep came down to the ferry to wave us off as we set off on our short voyage to Harris. It was so funny looking at the sheep, as they looked at us, as our boat sailed away. It made us smile as we said goodbye to Berneray. Now onto Harris and the rest of our adventure.

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Planes, trains and automobiles (and ferries!)

Planning for our Outer Hebrides & Isle of Skye trip

Readers of the Rough Guide recently voted Scotland:  ‘the most beautiful country in the world’, beating Canada to the number one slot.  Well that is some accolade! We have visited Scotland a few times and have always enjoyed our visits.  This year we thought we’d plan a special trip to the beautiful and remote islands of the Outer Hebrides.  These islands are located on the north west of the Scottish mainland. We’ve been on many trips and holidays over the years, but none that have needed as much planning as this one!  

Map showing the Outer Hebrides

Scotland has had a massive increase in tourists in recent years.  One of the reasons for the increase in numbers is the phenomenal success of the romantic time-travel TV series, “Outlander”.  The show is based on the adventures of an English nurse who travels back in time to the Highlands of the 1740’s and the Jacobite rebellion. The show has a huge following all over the world.  Needless to say, many of the show’s devoted fans want to visit “Outlander” Scotland. Hence, the rise in tourism. Strangely though the show has a large global audience, it is less well known in the UK.  Outlander is filmed in Scotland (even when they say they are in France or North Carolina!). We will not be visiting the film locations on this occasion – we’ll leave that for another trip!

Planes, trains and automobiles (and ferries!)

Although we live in the UK and could, in theory, drive all the way to Scotland, we prefer to fly there.  It is more expensive but it does mean we do not have to endure a 8-10 hour car journey. Birmingham airport is close to us and flight costs are reasonable. 

At first,  we wanted to see if we could do the trip without any driving at all, so we started planning for that. Our initial idea was that we would fly to Glasgow and from there, take a flight to one of the islands of the Outer Hebrides.  There are airports in Stornoway and Benbecula and the Isle of Barra. Barra has the most unique airport. Fancy landing here!

Plane landing in Barra

We then realised that  if we did this we couldn’t visit Oban which is on the Scottish mainland.  Martin had wanted to visit Oban so he could take part in its Saturday parkrun as it is quite famous in the running community. So, first change of plan.  We now decided to go Oban before visiting the islands themselves. So what to do now? Fly to Glasgow and then we could either hire a car, or get a bus, or take the train to Oban.  After some research and discovering that the train journey was really beautiful, we decided on that option. The train journey is advertised as one of the world’s best train journeys for stunning views.

Train to Oban

Tip – if you plan on getting the train look for the much cheaper advance fares that are available 12 weeks before the journey begins.  I set a reminder in my calendar to do this. Our train journeys have now been booked!

We’ve discovered that the buses are pretty good and link with the ferry timetimetables. Sadly, the buses don’t go to all the places we want to visit and they also don’t operate on Sundays. This means we will have to hire a car some of the time as there are no other options for travel.  We could walk or hire bicycles but it would be very difficult carrying our suitcases!

Calmac ferries is the local ferry operator and it has lots of travel options.  After much deliberation we have decided to go on the Hopscotch 23 route. This entails leaving from Oban on the ferry which takes 5 hours to the island of Barra. What a start! We then travel up through the Outer Hebrides. We will visit the following islands on our journey: Barra, Eriskay, South Uist, Benbecula, North Uist, Harris, Lewis.  It’s then on to the Isle of Skye before going on another scenic train journey to Inverness. We will fly home from there. Phew – we’re going to be travelling a lot!

Hopscotch 23 route

Resources used for planning:

A spreadsheet with dates, times, costs, timetables, hotels booked and deposits paid has been very useful.  Some places we will be staying in wanted a deposit, some wanted full payment and some wanted nothing in advance.   We will also need our cheque book as not everywhere accepts card payments. I’ve typed up our itinerary and saved it as a pdf document so that it’s easily at hand on my phone. 

Weather

The weather can be unpredictable in Scotland, even in the summer.   We will have to bring a mixture of summer clothing and clothes suitable for wet weather.  I’ve bought a strong, wind-proof umbrella to take as well. Let’s hope it can do its job, if needed.   You may also have heard about the midges in Scotland? They are tiny flies that bite, a bit like mosquitoes.  In order to help with these we have got a supply of the Avon spray: Skin So Soft. Everybody swears by it its success against the little flying nasties. We’ll let you know after our trip if its worked. Just in case, we’ve also bought two midge nets.  We really don’t want to have to use them, but it can’t hurt taking them along. 

Our planes, trains and automobiles are now booked and we can’t wait to explore the beautiful islands.  Look out for our future blogs to learn all about the places we visited.