After our short visit to Eriskay (see previous blog), we drove over the next causeway to South Uist. I loved the rocky landscape that greeted us here. We just had to stop and take some photos.
As it was raining and as the visibility was poor we decided to continue on to find our accommodation in Benbecula and not to stop along the way. This meant following the main road and travelling over more causeways. We stayed in a beautiful B&B on a croft. We were welcomed with tea and cake which was just what we needed after our journey.
The landscape of Benbecula was very different to the landscape we had encountered in the other islands of the Western Isles. It was flat and reminded us somewhat of East Anglia in England. On a clear day you can see for miles in every direction, though when we arrived, low clouds reduced visibility to about 50 metres!
South Uist is the birthplace of Flora Macdonald who famously helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape capture after the failed rebellion of 1745/6. We had planned a short stop at the Flora MacDonald memorial which was on the route to our B&B. However, visibility was so poor we missed the signs for the memorial and later almost missed the turn off for our accommodation!
Travelling in Benbecula
There is a small airport in Benbecula. Scotland’s airline, Loganair, operate flights to Stornoway, Inverness, Glasgow and Edinburgh. There’s a little cafe here that is popular with locals as well as travellers. The only other way to get to Benbecula is by road via South or North Uist. There is a bus service, but if you are used to the busy, frequent service of a big city, you’ll be disappointed. Buses do not operate on Sundays. Benebecula still respects Presbyterian traditional values. Keeping the Sabbath holy and bus free is one of them. It is worth knowing if you are here for a weekend and wish to use public transport. We were glad that we had chosen to a hire car for this part of our trip!
Walking in Benbecula
There are many scenic walks along the beautiful coastline around the island. We discovered a lovely beach with sand dunes and white sand: it was Cula Bay. The bay is popular with surfers and it was only a short distance from where we stayed. It was remarkable to see surfers braving the Atlantic waves so far north, but the Gulf Stream makes the sea temperature quite mild. For experienced surfers, the Atlantic breakers of Benbecula make the island’s surfing amongst the best in Britain, if not the world!
On a very windy day we decided to climb the Rueval, the highest point in the island. At 124m high, it rises from sea level to give extraordinary views up and down the Outer Hebrides. We drove to Market Stance and took the path to the summit. It is claimed, that the cave where Bonnie Prince Charlie is said to have hidden whilst waiting for Flora MacDonald to arrange his escape, is on this walk. We met a few walkers on the way including an 84 year old lady who did the walk every day. She was a hardy type, born and bred Benbecula, and no amount of wind or rain was going to stop her!
Peat is still gathered for fuel on the island. It was fascinating to see it cut up and drying out at the side of our path along the walk.
Eating Out
Benebecula was the quietest island of the islands we visited on our holiday. As such, there was only a limited choice of places where to eat. We stayed in the Balivanich area, near the airport. Here, there are two restaurants to choose from, The Stepping Stones and Charlie’s Bistro. A little further south was the Dark Island hotel where you could go for a meal or a drink in the bar. All three places were good and not too expensive but you may have to book a table in The Stepping Stones and Charlie’s Bistro in the busier summer months.
We didn’t find any pubs on the island, though we were told one bar opens up at weekends in the town of Balivanich. Lunch time you could try the airport cafe or the nearby riding school which provide teas, coffees and sandwiches at reasonable prices.
The Military Presence in Benbecula
The more observant traveller to Benbecula will soon become aware of the island’s military connections. The island is a key centre of the North Atlantic, NATO communication system. Though discreetly hidden away, the island is the home for military radar stations, NATO personnel from various countries often visit the island for combined operational exercises. So it is quite possible some of those Canadian, Dutch or Italian “tourists” you meet, are in reality military communication experts having a quiet break from an intense military operation!
History – Nunton Land Raids
The Highland Clearances were one of the saddest episodes of 18th and early 19th century Scottish history. Landlords removed crofting families from their estates to make way for more profitable sheep farming. Government legislation in the mid-19th century stopped the worst excesses of the Clearances but land ownership remained a bitterly contested subject into the 20th century. Some soldiers returning from the First World War took matters into their own hands and occupied crofts that they believed to be rightfully their property. Such actions were called “Land Raids” and one of the most famous land raids was the “Nunton Farm Land Raid” of 1923. There is a plaque on an old building near our B&B commemorating this event. Even today, the subject of crofting rights brings back bitter memories of past injustices to islanders.
Running in Benbecula
There is no parkrun in either South/North Uist or Benbecula as the islands have such small populations. On the positive side, the low population means that the quiet roads provide an excellent training ground. The flat terrain is an added bonus for those used to the strain of constantly running up hills!
There is an annual half marathon race in June and a 10K race in the Spring. Both races get booked up quickly so enter early if you are thinking of taking part. The half-marathon is one of the 5 Western Isles half-marathons. If you run 3 of these half-marathons you will qualify for the prestigious HEB3 award. What a fantastic way to spend a summer: running the Hebridean islands! Click here for more details.
We would love to hear your thoughts in the comments section below. Please share with anyone you think may be interested. See you again soon!
Godiva Travellers 