Oban: Gateway to the Western Isles

View of Oban from the ferry

Our journey to Oban on the west coast of Scotland began with a 3 hour scenic train journey from Glasgow.  The journey is ranked amongst the top train journeys in the world and it didn’t disappoint. After leaving urban Glasgow the journey follows the wonderful river Clyde as it meanders through the glens on its slow voyage down to the coast.  We felt like we were on holiday right from the start. We’d bought advance tickets for only £10.50 each, so this was definitely a bargain buy. Another bonus was the amazing things you can learn on journeys like this by talking to your fellow passengers. We learned about the art of sailing from two delightful people who happened to be sitting next to us.  Oban is now a centre for yachting holidays and our two companions were going on sailing trips from Oban.   Here are a few photos from our train journey.

We stayed in a small B&B a short walk from the town centre and train station. A great location and full Scottish breakfast.


If you still feel the need to eat later in the day after your breakfast then there are lots of places where you can eat. One of the most popular spots was the Oban Fish and Chip Shop – claimed as one of the best chip shops in Scotland according to The Scotsman newspaper.  We thought it a little pricey and crowded so we ended ended up eating our fish and chips in the excellent Wetherspoons situated by the harbour. Great value, quick service and lovely views.  

Another popular place to visit is Oban distillery in the heart of Oban.  A great place to visit if you have a rainy day, or if you would like to try a wee dram or two!


McCaig’s Tower was one of the sites we wanted to see.  This is a circular monument built in the 19th century by a local dignitary. It’s a steep walk up the hill from the town centre to see the structure which from a distance resembles the Colosseum of Rome.  It gives you a great view of the harbour and bay. Unfortunately for us it was raining when we went up there but it was still worth it for the panoramic views it gave. It is accessible by car for those who don’t wish to walk and there is car parking nearby.  For the more energetic, it’s well worth the effort walking up the hill, even if it’s raining!

Oban harbourside

The harbour is an ideal place to watch the ferries coming and going and to eat some of the freshly caught seafood. The harbour’s fame for good seafood now attracts many Chinese visitors so do not be surprised if you hear more Mandarin being spoken than English as you eat your meal!

As we left Oban for our onward journey to the Outer Hebrides we saw a young piper on the harbourside.  Visitors and locals alike enjoyed listening to the young man who proudly played his pipes and who we thought, was very good.  It was certainly unexpected entertainment for the many travellers waiting at the ferry terminal. The terminal is the onward transit point to many of Scottish islands. It is here that we later boarded the ferry to the first stop on our Hebridian adventure,  the small, but lovely Island of Barra.  

History of Oban

Oban began life as a small fishing port on the West coast of Scotland. It only started to grow with the establishment of a distillery in 1794.  The railway which connected Oban with the hinterland arrived a century later in 1880 so the town experienced little of the rapid Victorian urban growth that some Scottish towns experienced.

Oban was an important military base in the Second World War when it was used as a centre for anti-submarine warfare.   Since the 1950s, tourism has been the dominant industry in the town and Oban now acts as the ferry port for both the Inner and Outer Hebridean islands.

Despite being only a small town, Oban has a number of impressive churches with the Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Columba being particularly impressive.  If St. Columba isn’t to your liking then you can visit one of the many other denomination churches. In Oban you are spoilt for choice! 

Scotland has many war memorials and Oban’s memorial is particularly emotive and worth viewing.  Situated at the side of the road going out towards Ganavan, the memorial is a statue depicting two soldiers carrying their wounded comrade. The statue has a silent dignity that expresses so much about human nature.  Personally, I rank the Oban memorial as one of the most memorable war memorials I have visited. I recommend it for a few minutes of contemplative respect. 

Running in Oban

The free local Saturday parkrun attracts park run tourists from all over the UK and beyond.  In the Summer months there could be more tourists running the race than locals! The race starts by a local caravan site near Ganavan Sands, hence the parkrun is called the Ganavan Sands Park Run.  With 275ft of climbs the run is ranked as one of the toughest 40 park runs in the UK so do not expect a PB. The start is in a wonderful setting, by the sea which some runners go into for a post run cool down and swim!  All visitors are treated with wonderful Scottish hospitality which helps to make Oban’s parkrun one of the top rated amongst park run enthusiasts.

When you go to Oban you should make a special effort to do the parkrun.  You’ll enjoy it.

We only had a short stay in picturesque Oban before we continued our journey to the Western Isles. We wished we had longer and it’s on our list of places to visit again. 

Planes, trains and automobiles (and ferries!)

Planning for our Outer Hebrides & Isle of Skye trip

Readers of the Rough Guide recently voted Scotland:  ‘the most beautiful country in the world’, beating Canada to the number one slot.  Well that is some accolade! We have visited Scotland a few times and have always enjoyed our visits.  This year we thought we’d plan a special trip to the beautiful and remote islands of the Outer Hebrides.  These islands are located on the north west of the Scottish mainland. We’ve been on many trips and holidays over the years, but none that have needed as much planning as this one!  

Map showing the Outer Hebrides

Scotland has had a massive increase in tourists in recent years.  One of the reasons for the increase in numbers is the phenomenal success of the romantic time-travel TV series, “Outlander”.  The show is based on the adventures of an English nurse who travels back in time to the Highlands of the 1740’s and the Jacobite rebellion. The show has a huge following all over the world.  Needless to say, many of the show’s devoted fans want to visit “Outlander” Scotland. Hence, the rise in tourism. Strangely though the show has a large global audience, it is less well known in the UK.  Outlander is filmed in Scotland (even when they say they are in France or North Carolina!). We will not be visiting the film locations on this occasion – we’ll leave that for another trip!

Planes, trains and automobiles (and ferries!)

Although we live in the UK and could, in theory, drive all the way to Scotland, we prefer to fly there.  It is more expensive but it does mean we do not have to endure a 8-10 hour car journey. Birmingham airport is close to us and flight costs are reasonable. 

At first,  we wanted to see if we could do the trip without any driving at all, so we started planning for that. Our initial idea was that we would fly to Glasgow and from there, take a flight to one of the islands of the Outer Hebrides.  There are airports in Stornoway and Benbecula and the Isle of Barra. Barra has the most unique airport. Fancy landing here!

Plane landing in Barra

We then realised that  if we did this we couldn’t visit Oban which is on the Scottish mainland.  Martin had wanted to visit Oban so he could take part in its Saturday parkrun as it is quite famous in the running community. So, first change of plan.  We now decided to go Oban before visiting the islands themselves. So what to do now? Fly to Glasgow and then we could either hire a car, or get a bus, or take the train to Oban.  After some research and discovering that the train journey was really beautiful, we decided on that option. The train journey is advertised as one of the world’s best train journeys for stunning views.

Train to Oban

Tip – if you plan on getting the train look for the much cheaper advance fares that are available 12 weeks before the journey begins.  I set a reminder in my calendar to do this. Our train journeys have now been booked!

We’ve discovered that the buses are pretty good and link with the ferry timetimetables. Sadly, the buses don’t go to all the places we want to visit and they also don’t operate on Sundays. This means we will have to hire a car some of the time as there are no other options for travel.  We could walk or hire bicycles but it would be very difficult carrying our suitcases!

Calmac ferries is the local ferry operator and it has lots of travel options.  After much deliberation we have decided to go on the Hopscotch 23 route. This entails leaving from Oban on the ferry which takes 5 hours to the island of Barra. What a start! We then travel up through the Outer Hebrides. We will visit the following islands on our journey: Barra, Eriskay, South Uist, Benbecula, North Uist, Harris, Lewis.  It’s then on to the Isle of Skye before going on another scenic train journey to Inverness. We will fly home from there. Phew – we’re going to be travelling a lot!

Hopscotch 23 route

Resources used for planning:

A spreadsheet with dates, times, costs, timetables, hotels booked and deposits paid has been very useful.  Some places we will be staying in wanted a deposit, some wanted full payment and some wanted nothing in advance.   We will also need our cheque book as not everywhere accepts card payments. I’ve typed up our itinerary and saved it as a pdf document so that it’s easily at hand on my phone. 

Weather

The weather can be unpredictable in Scotland, even in the summer.   We will have to bring a mixture of summer clothing and clothes suitable for wet weather.  I’ve bought a strong, wind-proof umbrella to take as well. Let’s hope it can do its job, if needed.   You may also have heard about the midges in Scotland? They are tiny flies that bite, a bit like mosquitoes.  In order to help with these we have got a supply of the Avon spray: Skin So Soft. Everybody swears by it its success against the little flying nasties. We’ll let you know after our trip if its worked. Just in case, we’ve also bought two midge nets.  We really don’t want to have to use them, but it can’t hurt taking them along. 

Our planes, trains and automobiles are now booked and we can’t wait to explore the beautiful islands.  Look out for our future blogs to learn all about the places we visited.