North Uist – the Land of Lochs and Machair

North Uist

North Uist is one of the main islands in the Outer Hebrides.  The eastern and central part of the island has a flat, peatland landscape, interspersed by up to 800 fresh and salt water lochs.  This makes it a paradise for anglers and bird watchers. The western coastal region is more fertile than the east and arable farming is a feature of the area.  The rich fertile soil has also allowed a unique display of flora to thrive. Driving along the coast road visitors can see a beautiful carpet of flowers known as the machair which stretches for miles.  The beauty of the machair is one of the Outer Hebrides best kept secrets. 

Mochair, Hougharry, North Uist
Machair, Hougharry, North Uist

We visited North Uist whilst we were staying on the island of Benbecula. The islands of Eriskay, South Uist, Benbecula, North Uist and Berneray are now connected by causeways but prior to the causeways, individual islands could only reached by boat.  Driving across the islands today is so easy but just thirty years ago, our journey could have taken up to a day. Despite the causeways, life on North Uist still moves at a slow pace and there is little of the congestion that is sometimes found on the more northern islands.   Perhaps it is this peacefulness that makes North Uist so attractive to walkers.  

RSPB Balranald nature reserve walk

One of the most scenic walks on North Uist is the walk around the Balranald RSPB nature reserve.  Situated in the north west of the island, we would recommend a trip to the reserve to all visitors.  We enjoyed a gentle 90 minutes stroll around the reserve when the machair was in full bloom. It was quite stunning.  As we walked, we were entertained by birds singing their particular tunes, and though we could not identify them all, we definitely heard the distinctive cries of the Corncrake. 

The reserve is bordered by some fantastic bays and beaches.  The white sands literally dazzle the eyes with its brightness.  We wore sunglasses to protect our eyes from the glare and it is easy to imagine you are walking on a beach on a South Pacific atoll and not on a beach on the North Uist island.

Barpa Langais – Burial Chamber

Though North Uist has only one major Neolithic site, the spectacular chambered cairn and stone circle at Barpa Langais are well worth a visit.  The chamber is visible from the A867 road in the east of the island just north of Langass Lodge. We made the short boggy walk from the car park up the hill to the cairn.  It is quite humbling when you realise that this monument was built by our ancestors, with no machinery to help them, over 5000 years ago. There is an explanatory notice board at the site which gives a history of the monument and its builders.  

You can continue up the the Eavel hill to visit North Uist’s only stone circle and enjoy the view of the wetlands below.  We decided to retrace our tracks down the hill to our car as we were short of time. Next time we visit North Uist, we will have to stay longer!

The Beautiful Isle of Berneray

Berneray is a small island now connected by a short causeway to the island of North Uist.  Berneray is where travellers can catch the ferry to the Isle of Harris just a few miles across the sea.  We were lucky enough to have some time to explore the island before we took the ferry to Harris. The machair and beaches of Berneray are perhaps the most spectacular of all the Western isles.  Words can not really do the island justice. Please enjoy a few of the pictures we took whilst we were on a short walk near the ferry port.

Machair – A note of warning beware of midges here!

Beautiful beach in Berneray – no midges here!

Berneray beach

We  left our hire car in the car park at the Berneray ferry terminal. We never met a representative from the car hire company – no hard selling for extra insurance or more charges for unused petrol – what a welcome change this was from dealings with car hire companies we have had in the past.  Some sheep came down to the ferry to wave us off as we set off on our short voyage to Harris. It was so funny looking at the sheep, as they looked at us, as our boat sailed away. It made us smile as we said goodbye to Berneray. Now onto Harris and the rest of our adventure.

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6 thoughts on “North Uist – the Land of Lochs and Machair

  1. it looks a lovely island and well worth visiting. The machair reminds me of the wildflower swathes we have here in the Spring. Definitely on the to-visit list!

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  2. There is an unofficial Park Run held at Liniclate School every Sunday at 2.30pm. Its course is a mix of road, beach and machair, probably the most scenic park run you could have.

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  3. For your next visit you have a choice of runs in North Uist and Berneray. The Berneray 10K takes place in July each year. The details get posted on the community website at http://www.isleofberneray.com. This is probably the most scenic 10K in the islands and I am totally biased!
    The Two Islands Half Marathon takes place on the last Saturday of August each year, so this year is 29 August. The start is in Berneray, the finish is in Lochmaddy, North Uist. Details are at: https://www.facebook.com/2IslandsHalfMarathon/
    Hope to see you at one of these events in the future!

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